Fun Playing With Food to Benefit the March of Dimes

Last night, I was privileged to serve as a judge, helping three colleagues bestow bragging rights upon one of the generous chefs who donated time, energy, staff and food towards the fabulous March of Dimes Cleveland Signature Chefs Auction, which benefited the Cleveland chapter of March of Dimes. As always at such an event - all of the participants are winners. Still, chefs are so competitive - so who won and who was close?

The judging panel consisted of myself, Chef and restaurant owner Brian Okin (most recently of Verve, and now with Dinner in the Dark and Chef's Garden), Personal Chef Mary Wills of The Good Fork catering service, and former Cleveland Brown and now Cuyahoga Common Pleas Judge Dick Ambrose. As an occasional quantity cook, and food provider to 1800+ people a year and a half ago, I shouldn't feel so intimidated by those who earn their livings in the kitchen - but I have keen respect for them. As an attorney who used to aggressively litigate in the very courtroom that Judge Ambrose now presides over (but who now uses that savvy to work the business deals that hopefully avoid messy litigation) - I admit to a little stage fright over sharing the judging table with him. I suppose that it's a complement to my non-litigation corporate practice that he didn't have a clue as to who I am (in my day job, at least) - I'll take it! (My AVOO law practice profile and rating are accessible from a link to the left of this blog entry, BTW.) So - what did we eat and how did we like it?

First - apologies to Muse at the Ritz Carlton - our winner! Chef Constantine Vourliotis created an amazing bite - which I did not get a photo of! The irony was that I had just mentioned to Judge Okin that facing the 27 or so plates we'd been promised (thank heavens it turned out to be closer to 22) made me feel like I was at  Chicago's Alinea (known for its 23 course high end, small plate tasting menu). When this plate was set in front of me - I don't know how I didn't snap a photo. The look of the plate really reminded me of Alinea! Chef Vourliotis's plate held a delicate black truffle gnocchi that popped, well, like the "truffle explosion" dish at Alinea. And the sauce, contained in a slender "squeeze it" stick - completed the sophisticated feel and flavor of the dish.

I must also apologize to Umamai Asian Kitchen and Chef Matthew Anderson for not snapping a photo of his goat cheese dumpling and beef tartare with kimchi - again, the momentarily rushed logistics must have distracted me.

So - what did I manage to photograph? A pretty amazing culinary display. Play along with me, will you?

Dim and Den Sum -Cumin-Pear Soup topped with Stone Crab

Dim and Den Sum - Warm Rum/Apple Cider Shooter

Chef Chris Hodgson of Dim and Den Sum almost always pleases - and this pairing was one of the top rated. The complexity of the pear and cumin soup, topped with pristine seafood, and accompanied by a rum cocktail (I am a rum lover) completely won me over. 

Quince - "Surf & Turf" - Tuna with Cranberry over Sweet Potato Chip and BBQ Beef

I'd honestly not known much about Gregg Korney's Quince (in Olmsted Falls) - but this dish made me sit up and take notice! I adored the dried but moist cranberries and the way they popped with the tuna tartare and sweet potato chip; the BBQ beef also delivered. This was among my top three picks.

AMP 150 - Smoked Salmon with Cranberry-Beet-Horseradish Relish and Creme Fraiche

Chef Ellis Cooley once again knocked flavors out of the park - using some textures similar to the preceding dish - but with the addition of fresh beets and a touch of horseradish below the perfectly smoked fish. The creme fraiche was a perfect counterpoint - loved this!

Foundation Room/House of Blues - Walleye Escabeche with Popcorn Shoots 

Chef Teresa Todia did a really nice job with this. While I didn't catch what type of pasta is under the fish - those popcorn shoots absolutely exploded with flavor - and at this time of year! The subtle chile sealed the deal for me. Great textures and flavors, Chef!


Melange - Fresh Veggie Chips, Diced Red Bell Pepper, Smoked Bleu Cheese, Bacon

This was the first dish we tasted. Chef Adam Bostwick created a lovely light bite with this - just enough bleu cheese flavor to tickle the palate without overwhelming, plus a fall melange (sorry) of root vegetable chips, plus bacon = winner.


Blue Canyon - Lobster Mac 'N Cheese with Bacon

What can I say about Chef Brandt Evans's staple comfort food with a lobstery twist? I should note that Chef Evans was 2010 Honorary Chef for this event - which I suspect meant more work and expense for him, rather than more glory. Huzzah, Chef Brandt - your Mac 'N Cheese did not disappoint - it was creamy and delicious!




Bistro 185 - Lobster Ravioli with Laughing Bird Shrimp

Speaking of lobster - I really enjoyed this plate from Ruth and Marc Levine - owners and chefs at Bistro 185.  The lobster ravioli and lobster-infused sauce were both delicious. But I have a soft spot for Laughing Bird Shrimp, as evidenced by this blog post - well played Ruth and Marc!


Three Birds - Pulled Pork Potsticker over Black Bean Puree, pickled onions, tomato

This plate also got a lot of love from the judges. Honestly, when it was first put in front of me and described - I didn't think the bean puree would "go" with the Asian-inspired potsticker. Well, let me tell you - the flavors and textures all harmonized quite nicely. The crunch of the pickled vegetables really brought it all together.


Willoughby Brewing Company - Surf and Turf Pierogie

As you can see, the event was down to the paper plates by the time this item was served to us (but yay for the white background = better photo). Another toothsome and tasty offering!


Marigold Catering - Lemon Tarragon Crab Salad in Vanilla in a mini-ice cream-cone

Chef Mike Smith chose wisely in flavoring his crab salad with lemon and tarragon - those flavors married well with the gentle hint of vanilla from the mini-cone. I liked this a lot.

Palate - Stewed Shortrib with julienned carrot and potato, green onion

Chef Jeff Jarrett (formerly of The Leopard, Dante, Lockkeepers and North End in Hudson) has made short rib his signature dish, and this one delivered. Though it was my 22nd plate of the evening - I ate the whole chunk of meat (though only a bit of the veg - sorry Michael Pollen). It was that tasty.

Great Lakes Brewing Company - Bourbon Soaked Bread Pudding

What can you say about bread pudding that is swimming in bourbon-infused butter. Yum!

Shinto - "Little Delicious" roll: spicy tuna, crab, roe, eel sauce, tempura; Spicy tuna roll, California Roll 

Chef Jimmy Soria presented us with a little delicious slice of tempuraed-sushi heaven. I understand why their "Little Delicious" roll has won them awards.

Dish Deli - Wild Mushroom Strudel and Butternut Squash-Apple-Bleu Cheese Tart

I have a soft spot in my heart and palate for Chef Donna Chriszt - to make the long story short - she saved a disastrous wedding anniversary dinner night for Bob and I (which featured a monsoon-like rain storm as we abandoned the first restaurant that completely failed us, which is now long out of business) about 13 years ago. She totally rocks the kitchen.
 

La Dolce - First plate - Farfalle with Fresh Vegetables, Anchovy, Garlic, Onion

La Dolce Vita -  Second plate - pasta, sweet corn, tomato, veg

La Strada - Steamed Mussels with white wine, garlic and Harrisa sauce

Even though I am not a mussel fan - I enjoyed nibbling on these - and the sauce really rocked it with a little spice and generous herbaceousness.


Ken Stewart's - Lamb Meatball over Crostini


Ken Stewart's - Angel Food Cake with Sweet Toppings


Duet Catering - Shrimp Salad

Unfortunately - I was photographing and not listening when Chef Pamela Waterman explained her dish.


Corleone's - Scallop, Winter Squash Puree, Pecans

So sorry Chef Marlon Mayorga that my lone shot of your People's Choice award winning dish is not sharply focused. This dish won the People's Choice award for the evening, and I swear it tasted better than this photo makes it look.


Pier W - Lobster Salad

Again - apologies to Chef Regan Reik - this was the next to last plate that we were served, and in my rush to photograph, I did not get a good description. It was light and lovely, however.

And so, after playing with no fewer than 22 plates from some of Cleveland's finest chefs - all I could say was, "I'm full." As noted, Muse at Ritz Carlton won the "official" judging, and Corleone's won "People's Choice." It was an interesting process to sit at "judges' table" and I thank Jennifer Lawson and the March of Dimes not only for offering me that opportunity, but for offering me the ability to give away two tickets to this event on this blog (I understand that my winner went on to win a cruise to the Bahamas in February in the silent auction  - pretty sweet!) As we approach the end of the calendar year, when those with means are incentivised to contribute to worthwhile charities - I hope that the March of Dimes remains on your radar as a cause truly worthy of your attention.

And a shout out to Joe Harvey, who it seems works his buns off at all of these local charitable food events - his company, LocalFoodService.com, has a lot to offer to our local food community - please check them out and consider playing with their food!

Fun Playing with Mother Earth and Slow Food on Terra Madre Day

Every since I gave my first volunteer day to World Hunger Year as a follower of the late singer Harry Chapin, in 1977, I have been involved in the food movement. The "food movement" takes many forms - some fun and tasty,  some serious and life-or-death, and some in between these extremes. The organization that best embodies this movement for the "average American,"  IMHO, is Slow Food. Founded internationally by delegates from 15 countries in 1989, Slow Food in the US

seeks to create dramatic and lasting change in the food system. We reconnect Americans with the people, traditions, plants, animals, fertile soils and waters that produce our food. We inspire a transformation in food policy, production practices and market forces so that they ensure equity, sustainability and pleasure in the food we eat.

Slow Food USA Mission Statement.

Slow Food designated Thursday December 10, 2009 as Terra Madre Day. Members were encouraged to celebrate eating locally, and to celebrate 20 years of Slow Food activism. Events raised the voices of small-scale farmers, fishers, breeders and all those who uphold good, clean and fair food production and traditions in their region, and are working for food sovereignty. And so, in this spirit, Bob and I partook in two fabulous eating adventures that celebrated the locally owned and smaller-scale food producers and providers. And we had fun playing with all of this food, too.

We began with lunch delivered from Mister Brisket to a diverse group assembled in our office conference room - a few of the firm's attorneys, friends, and Slow Food members.


BBQ Brisket on White

Two people ordered this - the perfume was amazing!


The Charles Barr

Since I couldn't decide between corned beef and pastrami, I decided to enjoy both! On rye, of course, with deli mustard. Yum.

And as if this feast wasn't enough - local farmer Courtney McLeod (also known as Herbthyme on the local chat boards) brought us two lovely dessert choices from her farm kitchen  - banana bread and chocolate pumpkin bread.

Sorry the banana bread got short shrift - I was shooting across the table.

After about 5 hours of digestion, it was time for part 2 of the festivities, which would include many of the same folks who shared our lunch - a Meet the Farmers' Dinner at The Greenhouse Tavern.

Our evening began in the intimate downstairs room, with the farmer-guests seated at the Chef's Table alongside the open kitchen.  The tables were set with bread from On the Rise Artisan Breads and the most creamy looking spread - I thought for sure it was cheese or a dip from Lake Erie Creamery (one of the featured farmers) - but the server informed us that it was butter churned in-house! And a delightful start it was!

The amuse was served to each diner, then a platter was set on the table for anyone who wanted more!

Arincini with Parmesan & Chives

This succulent bite was served with an Aperol Cocktail with Prosecco. As we enjoyed, Chef-Owner Jonathon Sawyer welcomed us.

Our first course featured Lake Erie Creamery cheeses:

Endive Tarte Tatin with Fresh & Aged Goat Cheeses and Roasted Grapes

 

I've never thought to roast grapes - but what a wonderful idea! The tatin melted in the mouth - it was a shame that farmer Mari Ann Janosko was unable to join us, so she could hear those lip-smacking sounds for herself!

Old Overholt Rye & Pimm's Highball

Chef Jonathon decided to go all over the map with the drink selections - after the prosecco cocktail that began the evening, we enjoyed Brother Thelonious Belgian Style Abbey Ale with our first course, and this cocktail with our second. The rye liquor complimented the rye flavors in the salad course perfectly.

Caraway & Rye Roasted Seed Carrots with Assorted Greens, Pumpkin Seeds and Bacon

The greens and beets were supplied by Farmer Peter McDermott of Urban Farms and they were simply marvelous - the carrots had an extra shot of sweetness infused into them by the recent frigid weather snap, and the greens conversely had been harvested "just in time" to avoid being frozen.

The next two courses were served family style:

40 Clove Garlic Chicken, Whole Fryed, with Lemon, Thyme & Pomme Puree

The chicken, from Hickory Acres farm in Oberlin, was incredibly crispy and moist, and the deep fried lemons added a new taste twist. Farmers Fred and Chris Thaxton delivered with the most heavenly organic garlic, which was roasted to perfection.

Eat your heart out, Colonel Sanders - the herbs and spices complimented the fresh poultry  to a tee.

Thaxton's garlic was especially wonderful mashed into the pomme puree:

Sorry - too busy eating to photograph the combination - but you get the idea!

The last meat course was sourced from Farmer Aaron Miller and featured his grass-fed beef!

Braised Beef Shortrib with Pearl Onions

 

My portion.

My table-mate's portion.

Unfortunately, I was so fixated on the beef that I didn't photograph the Yorkshire Puddings when they came out, nor did I snag one. Chef Jonathon said that more were coming, so I didn't worry about it. Bob and I finally snagged the last two from the initial batch, that were sitting on a serving plate on the far side of the tables.  Since I knew more were coming, I didn't photograph it (it was already getting pretty cold). Trust me that the puddings were beautiful to look at and delicious to eat - but when the additional batch came out, the emphasis was more on taste than looks:

These were every bit as delicious as (and a lot warmer when I got to taste them than) the first ones!

For dessert, Chef Jonathon combined some of Lucy's Welhausen's magnificant Ohio Honey with Ohio Grenache for a warming glogg, which complimented the honey-based dessert very nicely:

 

Fennell Pollen Panna Cotta with Ohio Honey

A light and succulent ending to a fabulous celebration of some of our finest local farmers and their wares! The flavor of the fennell pollen cut through the rich panna cotta, and brought out the honey notes.

I hope that you found some local food to play with on Terra Madre Day. And it's ok if you didn't - no need for event psychosis - every day can be Terra Madre Day if we take a little time and effort to consider where our food comes from and how it is made. We are very lucky in the Cleveland area to have so many fine sources at the farm, retail and restaurant levels to play with food that is made with love, on so many levels.