Wednesday, April 13, 2011

More Fun Playing With Passover Food

As I posted earlier today, Fun Playing With Food is featured in today's Taste section of the Cleveland Plain Dealer, with additional content online! Please click here and here to read all about it - and enjoy the re-post below, from April 21, 2008, detailing how I make my potato kugel and sweet farfel puddings.

Fun Playing with Passover Puddings

My mother always made two puddings, or kugels, for Passover. One is sweet. The recipe comes from a cookbook called "Elegant Essen, " which was put out by the East Northport Jewish Center in 1973 as so many churches, synagogues, and civic groups put out cookbooks - by collecting recipes from their members. This recipe is entitled "Pudding - Sweet and Delicious" and is attributed to Eunice Zarett.



The dish consists of 1# Matzo Farfel, which you can see in the pot behind the farfel package, margarine (which is the only box of the stuff I buy all year - and this year, Kosher for Passover stick margarine was nowhere to be found, for reasons explained here), 7 eggs, 1 cup sugar, 1 can apricots in juice or sugar (no corn syrup!), salt, cinnamon (Vietnamese and intense, from Heather's Heat & Flavor), hot water and about 1 cup of cold water.



Start by pouring hot tap water over the farfel. The recipe says to drain it, and mom always drained it pretty promptly. One year, when I was making this, I forgot to drain the farfel. When I finally remembered and looked into the pot - it had absorbed all of the water! I made the pudding anyway, and learned that allowing the farfel to become saturated increases the "puddingness" of the kugel - so I now deliberately leave it for a while before draining (if there is anything left to drain).


Seven Blue Eggs Ready For Beating


Not Margarine Melting

Since there was no KP margarine available anyway, I decided to try a product from the Mustard Seed Market that had no hydrogenated oil, trans fats, or artificial ingredients. It had soybean oil and corn for flavor, so it was not even close to Pasaidich, but I decided to try it anyway. And it was good.



I beat together the eggs, margarine, sugar, salt, cinnamon, and the juice from the can of apricots.



The diced apricots went into the drained farfel, and the egg mixture was then added. The recipe calls for 1.5 cups cold water to also be added here, but since there was still some water left in the farfel after draining, I only used 1 cup.



This was poured into a prepared dish, topped with sprinkled cinnamon and baked.



Sorry - no photos of the hot pudding when served - it just didn't happen! But here is what it looks like - it is delicious to eat hot or cold!





The second pudding is the traditional Potato Kugel. If you look on the internet or Jewish cooking books and magazines, you'll find numerous variations on this dish. But I cannot bring myself to mess with it, it is so perfect as mom made it! Well . . . almost. We do add some hot chile (which my mother, who doesn't like any hot spice, would not approve of!), and we use a better prep method (mom used a blender and we use a food processor) - but this is still mom's kugel.



For 5# of potato (a "double" kugel) - 4 eggs, potato starch, kosher salt, ground pepper and about 4 garden Tabasco peppers from the freezer take a whirl in the Cuisinart.



The potatoes, and some onions, are peeled and grated using the cheese grating wheel of the food processor (or the smallest holes on a box grater, if you don't mind a little knuckle in your kugel):





The grated veggies are combined with the egg mixture, and matzo meal is added a TB or so at a time, until the mixture feels right. It is then poured into a prepared casserole and baked. Again, we didn't get a picture "right out of the oven," but this should give you the idea:





No wonder my mom always called Passover Kugel Week! What a glorious way to play with your food, and then have leftovers!

Fun Playing With Food for the Cleveland Plain Dealer

I'll have an update on this a little later today, but I'm thrilled to announce that Fun Playing With Food is featured in today's Taste section (with more content on-line) of the Cleveland Plain Dealer! Please click here and here to read all about it!

Friday, April 1, 2011

Fun Playing with Chili For A Good Cause

2011 Chili Cookoff

This is no April Fools Day joke! Tomorrow, some of Cleveland's finest chili makers will descend upon Quicken Loans Arena to compete in the 2011 Chili Cookoff for Autism! The event directly benefits the Autism Society of Greater Cleveland and runs from noon to 3pm. The suggested donation to attend is only $15 for adults and $5 for children. There will be a lot more fun happening at this event than just chili, including raffles of some pretty cool items, including  Two Continental Airlines tickets good for travel anywhere in the Continental United States and South America, Mexico and a few islands, a Disney  Air and Hopper Pass Package, a dinner party at Peppermill Pub and Grille for 20, a Jake DelHomme  autographed football,  a Ramon Sessions jersey, and an Intimate Dinner for Two valued at $200.00 prepared and served by Chef Eric Wells of  Skylarae Catering . So - come on out!

I have been involved in this event since its inception, and am pleased to have helped raise both money and awareness for a wonderful cause. For the second consecutive year, I will be on the judging panel and I am looking forward to tasting some fabulous chili. Chefs participating this year include:
 
Eric Wells- Skylarae Catering

John Wright – Peppermill Bar and Grille

Doug Fulton- 5 Star Catering

Chef Gary- Rocky River Brewing Compnay

Pete Dressen- Walden

Bill Polewchak and his 20 Mule Team Barracho Team

Shana Trepal- Treehuggers Café

Tommy Kneeland- Redstone Café

Ken Kostal- Big Boppers

Jeff Fisher- Touch Suppper Club

Zinc Brassierie

My sources also tell me that Cleveland television legend Fred Griffith will be dishing out chili with the 20 Mule Team Barracho Team, and Cleveland radio personality Joe Croneauer will also be in the house - come on down, enjoy some amazing chili and say hello.

Since the event starts at noon, you can stop by and get filled up with luscious, home-made chili on your way to the Indians game, or as a first course to the opening game of the Cleveland Gladiators Arena football team, which begins at 4pm right there at the Q. Or perhaps you might stop by after your morning trip to the farmers' market or the West Side Market, and then continue with your day after. However you fit it in, I guarantee that you'll have fun playing with chili at the 2011 Chili Cookoff for Autism.

Tuesday, March 15, 2011

Fun Playing with Chef Ellis Cooley at the Culinary Vegetable Institute

As you've read over my last few posts, Bob and I were invited to share in the goodness of a  monthly Earth-to-Table Dinner at the Culinary Vegetable Institute on Saturday night. Adding to the fun, we'd be sharing our table with some friends, including the lucky winners of the ticket contest on this blog. Even more fun - our friend Dave, who blogs as Live to Cook at Home, would be in the kitchen as sous-chef for a day. We couldn't wait!

The Terrible Trio Plot and Plan

Left to right - tonight's featured chef, Ellis Cooley, and his co-horts in all things culinary (including Dinner in the Dark) - Brian Okin and Jeff Jarrett. The gentleman with his back to you is CVI Chef Michael Lyons.

Dave W joins the confab at the left.

When our host, Farmer Lee Jones, rings the dinner bell, he does not fool around:


And so - on to the fabulous food, featuring of course the amazing produce of the Chef's Garden.

Velvet Mushroom Soup - Chives, Truffle Oil, Dehydrated Mushrooms

Regular readers of this blog know that I have a slight issue with mushrooms - mostly with their texture. I am actually growing more and more enamored with their flavor - this amazing soup may have brought me fully over to the mushroom side (so long as I don't have to chew on them). This item periodically appears on the menu at AMP 150 - all I can say is that if it is on the menu when you eat there - ORDER IT!

Assorted Baby Beet Salad - Lake Erie Creamery Goat Cheese Fondue, Candied Spiced Nuts, Baby Herbs

 

A lovely cold counterpoint to the warm soup. Perfectly balanced textures and flavors, with the beets singing through.


Charcuterie Platter - Port Relleitte, Liver Pate, Red Cabbage Kimchi

Again, these are items you might see at AMP 150; Chef Ellis is fond of pairing spreads and jams on toast to delicious effect.




I enjoyed the rillettes.



But I inhaled the pate. Two of them. And I'd do it again.


Dinner Rolls

Served with a lovely sweet butter.



Slow Roasted Duck - Braised Caramelized Endive, Citrus

The duck, from Hickory Acres Meats in Oberlin, was perfectly cooked and succulent. 

Whole Roasted Carrots - Parsnip Puree, Picholine Olives

When I first read the menu, I didn't see how green olives could possibly pair well with sweet carrots. But damn if Chef Ellis didn't make it sing!


Baby Fennel and Figs -Fines Herbs and Fronds

This dish had me channeling an old Fig Newtons TV commercial from my youth. Tender, tasty (but not flaky)  fennel cooked with gooey gooey rich and chewy figs - darn tootin!

It took all of my self control to stop after a taste of each dish - but another round was in the offing and it proved a wise strategy.


Brown Butter Kale - Homemade Smoked Kielbasa

I've tried kale a few times, but never been a huge fan - until now. Ellis and his crew cooked the kale to it's taste and textural sweet spot, and the sausage was truly worthy of a midwestern meal. 


Braised Lamb in - Stew of Dried Beans, Mint, Natural Juices

 

This, my friends, was a beautiful thing. But wait, there's more!


Roasted Cauliflowers - Pine nuts, Lake Erie Creamery Goat Cheese, Beet Vinaigrette

Note the plural on "cauliflower" - there were at least two varieties in this dish. Simply fabulous and it didn't matter a bit that we'd already "had" beets and goat cheese - it all worked to delicious perfection. 

Anson Mills Organic Farro Piccolo - Celery Root & Leaves, Pickles

Regular readers of this blog also know that celery is not a favorite of mine, particularly raw celery. Despite the celery (which I took a bunch of, because I wanted to try it anyway), the farro was so lovely - not a side you see every day, and eating this dish, I wondered, why not? It reminded me a little of barley; slightly chewy, creamy and wonderfully savory.

Dessert was next.


We were first presented with this plate, with a large hole in the middle, between a Fennel Nut Bread and Meringue cookies (Paplova) infused with Sichuan Peppercorn. 



Floating Island

Chef Ellis explained this unusual dessert, which Wikipedia says at its base is "a French dessert consisting of meringue floating on crème anglaise (a vanilla custard)." Chef Ellis kicked his version up with blood orange and shiso. It filled the middle of the dessert plate nicely.


But alas, I was past "uncle" and could barely eat half. A shame, because it was so light and tasty.

A ticket to dinner at CVI will set you back $75, plus beverages and gratuity. But the experience is truly amazing. If you enjoy farm to table dining, this is the dinner ticket for you. April's dinner will spotlight Chef Jeremy Martindale from the Omni New Haven Hotel at Yale, and  May will feature Ellis's partner in Dinner in the Dark, Palate's Jeff Jarrett. CVI's endeavors also raise funds for Veggie U, a most worthwhile cause for anyone who cares about food and how our next generation is learning about it. If you love vegetables, you will have fun playing with the food at the Culinary Vegetable Institute!

Wednesday, March 9, 2011

Our CVI Winner Has Confirmed

Congratulations Mandi! Sorry to everyone who did not win - hope to see you Saturday at the Culinary Vegetable Insitute anyway! Please call 419-499-7500 to reserve your seat.

Tuesday, March 8, 2011

And the Winner is:

Thank you to my 14 readers who commented on this blog post - you all had some great ideas for vegetables to be grown by CVI and by AMP 150's gardens this year!

The winner as selected by Random.org was commenter # 4: Mandi.

However, Mandi did not follow the rules and leave or email me with a way to contact you. Mandi, I need you to please email me at funplayingwithfood at yahoo dot com before 10am tomorrow, Wednesday March 9, with your name, email address and phone number. If I haven't heard from you by 10am tomorrow, I'll have to pick another winner.

Sunday, March 6, 2011

Fun Playing With Asian New Year Food 2011 at Siam Cafe

Just before we left for Florida, we shared a delightful Chinese New Year Dinner and Lion Dance with friends at Cleveland Asiatown's Li Wah Restaurant. Upon returning from our Florida trip, we got to enjoy another take on playing with Asian New Year food with the Northern Ohio Chapter of Slow Food at Cleveland Asiatown's own Siam Cafe.

We've been to at least three of these dinners at Siam Cafe, perhaps four. Chef-owner Michael Hong reaches into his culinary bag of tricks for auspicious dishes every time and I'll happily eat his braised ham hock once a year every year if I can get it! This year, he and his friendly staff coped with our 40-some-odd banquet diners, two large parties celebrating birthdays (one American and one Asian) and a fully packed house on a Sunday evening. And they put out the most amazing, fresh, delicious spread I've ever tasted at Siam Cafe. 

Stuffed Crab Claws

Crab Claw stuffed with Shrimp Puree and Crispy Vermicelli. I really enjoyed this incarnation of a dish Chef Hong has served to us before.




Shanghai Xiao Long Bao

Traditional Soup Dumpling in Dipping Sauce. Chef Hong favors a more sturdy wrapper and less soup in the dumpling than some Chinese chefs - and the result is toothy and delicious. The presentation was also interesting - each diner got a bowl of dipping sauce and the servers placed a first dumpling in each bowl. The quantities were sufficient for each diner to enjoy a second dumpling, but we were on our own for landing them intact in the sauce bowl.

Scallion Pancake with Char-Sui Pork

Char-Sui Barbecued Pork Wrapped with Pancake. Served with Sweet Hoisin Sauce. Another dish we've enjoyed before - done to non-greasy, chewy perfection.


Wonton Dumplings in Thai Tom Yum Soup

Spicy Thai Soup with Two types of Mushrooms and Wonton Dumplings. Here is where the menu diverged from "Chinese" to "Asian." A light, spicy broth cuddled freshly made pork and shrimp wontons, mushrooms, and scallions. 



Lobster with Golden Garlic - Maine Lobsters Stir Fried with Minced Roasted Garlic, Green & Red Peppers

This might have been the best lobster I've ever eaten. First, it was served blazing hot from the wok, coated with chunky garlic and peppers that clung tenaciously to the shells instead of falling to the plate. Second, the  kitchen had expertly cracked the crustaceans such that the meat was easily extracted. Finally, and most important, the high quality lobster meat had been cooked to the exact right point such that it melted in the mouth.


Baby Abalone & Shitake Mushroom over Mustard Greens

A staple dish at Chinese New Year due to the round, coin like shapes of the abalone and mushrooms, together with the greens which are colored as money - this is always my least favorite because I favor neither mushrooms nor abalone. I did eat some of the greens, which are often tough and bitter. These were tender and sweet, and benefited from the mushroomy sauce.


Whole Crispy Roasted Duck

Roast duck is all about the skin - and this baby delivered! Tender meat, crisp skin and a very traditional preparation equaled a lovely dish.


Michael’s Fabled New Years Only Fried Custard with Shrimp, Snow Peas & Carrots



This unique dish was the only platter other than the lobster that our table consumed to the last morsel. The custard, which probably had some tapioca or wheat starch in the filling, was wrapped in delicate pastry and fried. It gently walked the line between sweet and savory, and provided a textural foil to the crunchy vegetables and nuts, while the shrimp offered brininess.


Pla Red Pik - Fillets of Victorian Perch with Spicy Thai Tamarind Sauce

Instead of the traditional whole steamed fish, Chef Hong fried the perch and paired it with a gently spicy sauce. The combination worked well and we all enjoyed it.


Braised Ham Hock

Another Michael Hong Chinese New Year signature dish: the most delicious and tender Ham Hock, which had been slow cooked for hours (I seem to recall one year he said it cooks low and slow overnight) and served with Baby Bok Choy that still had some body to it and actually lent flavor to the dish rather than just being a garnish.




As with the duck, the skin of the pig had been artfully prepared (though not quite as crispy). If you ever have the opportunity to enjoy this dish at Siam Cafe - make sure you avail yourself!


Very Beautiful & Delicious Fried Rice

And what makes this rice so beautiful and delicious? Pork fat! Yuppers - as is traditional, this festive rice bore the unmistakable flavor and texture that comes only from frying in lard.


Traditional Noodle with Chicken - Thin Egg Noodle Stir Fried in Soy Sauce with Chicken

My only complaint about this traditional noodle dish was that the noodles had been cut fairly short- bad luck for the New Year! Bad luck or not - I couldn't stop eating it.



This was the bounty remaining on the table when the last of us cried "Uncle!" We did box it all up and distribute it around the table. 

But wait - there was still one more dish to come:


Flaky Pastry Crust Baked with Egg Custard

While Koko Bakery makes my favorite Dan Tac in the world - these jewels were mighty fine renditions of the form. We took them home; too stuffed to even consider a bite.



It was a bite worth waiting for - fresh, eggy, creamy, flaky and chewy all at the same time.

If you've skipped going to this dinner because you've seen some of the dishes before, or perhaps there were some off notes in some of the shrimp one year - you are doing yourself a disservice! We had more fun playing with the food at this year's Slow Food Asian New Year Dinner than at any previous visit  I've made to Siam Cafe - make sure that you join us next year. And in the mean time, I saw some huge, feisty dungeness crabs in  Siam Cafe's seafood tank - I think there is one there with my name on it.

Also, please visit my last blog post and leave your comment there before 10am on Tuesday March 8, 2011 to be entered into the drawing for two tickets to The Culinary Vegetable Institute's Earth to Table Dinner featuring Chef Ellis Cooley of AMP 150 next Saturday, March 12

Friday, March 4, 2011

A Contest to Win Some Fun Playing from Earth to Table

My husband Bob is an avid vegetable gardener - his last wish is for his remains to be scattered on a garden or farm. I have grown to greatly appreciate the wonders of produce from a real garden since I've been married to him. We have always wanted to go to a dinner at Chef Farmer Jones's Culinary Vegetable Institute - but it has never worked out. We have enjoyed so many wonderful meals including produce from The Chef's Garden; surely, a Chef allowed to go wild among the selections there could create an amazing meal.

The Culinary Vegetable Institute describes itself as follows: 

"The Culinary Vegetable Institute provides the world’s most innovative chefs with a place to share knowledge, experiment and discover techniques for growing and preparing the most flavorful varieties of vegetables in the world. The collaboration between the garden farmer and the chef and between the old and the new is the foundation of the Culinary Vegetable Institute (CVI). The CVI Kitchen Garden™ team searches for the best techniques to produce the most flavorful vegetable varieties in an organic fashion. The CVI is a learning center for the most progressive chefs to pass their vegetable knowledge and techniques to the rising stars of tomorrow."

CVI is also affiliated with Veggie U, a 501(c)(3) not-for-profit organization committed to fostering the synergy between educational, nutritional, and agricultural goals to combat the rising epidemic of childhood obesity. Think "arts in education" but focused on real sustainable food - they bring hands-on food love to the classroom. And compost. Talk about playing with your food!

I was delighted when CVI invited me to attend their upcoming Earth to Table Dinner featuring Chef Ellis Cooley of AMP 150 (warning - web site is musical). Chef Ellis is an amazing individual who gave up the warmth and seafood of Florida to become an urban gardener at the most unlikely of venues, the Airport Marriott. AMP 150 stands for "America's Modern Palate", and we have enjoyed Chef Ellis's food both at his restaurant, and at Dinner in the Dark. Ellis is one-third of  Dinner in the Dark (together with  Cleveland-area chefs Jeff Jarrett and Brian Okin) which brings together Cleveland’s top chefs every month to host a six-course dinner for guests who are “in the dark” about the evening’s menu and the identitiy of the chefs until they arrive; the chefs receive the opportunity to create dishes at their whim and raise money for good causes. To date, the dinner series has raised more than $25,000 from ticket sales for local charities. 

And here is the best part - CVI has graciously extended the opportunity for me to give away two tickets to next Saturday's dinner to a lucky reader of this blog! Hungry yet?  Here is Chef Ellis's menu:

Small Bites

 Assorted Baby Beet Salad
Lake Erie Creamery Goat Cheese Fondue, Candied Spiced Nuts, Baby Herbs

Velvet Mushroom Soup
Chives, Truffle Oil, Dehydrated Mushrooms

Charcuterie Platter
Port Relleitte, Liver Pate, Red Cabbage Kimchi

Large Bites

 Braised Lamb in
Stew of Dried Beans, Mint, Natural Juices

Slow Roasted Duck
Braised Caramelized Endive, Citrus

 Gardens

 Whole Roasted Carrots
Parsnip Puree, Picholine Olives

Brown Butter Kale
Homemade Smoked Kielbasa

Roasted Cauliflowers
Pine nuts, Lake Erie Creamery Goat Cheese, Beet Vinaigrette 

Baby Fennel and Figs
Fines Herbs and Fronds

Anson Mills Organic Farro Piccolo
Celery Root & Leaves, Pickles

Desserts

 Floating Island
Citrus salad, Anglaise, Shiso

Petit Fours and Paplova


The dinner costs $75 and begins at 6:30pm. One lucky reader of this blog will win two tickets to enjoy Chef Cooley's creations, on CVI.  Please note that tax, gratuity and beverages are not included in the free tickets. CVI is located at 12304 State Route 13, Milan OH 44846. If you would like to attend this dinner (and if you don't win the tickets) - please call  419-499-7500 to make your reservation for next Saturday's dinner. If you can't attend March's dinner - May's Earth to Table Dinner will be crafted by Ellis's partner in Dark Dining - Chef Jeff Jarrett.

To enter the contest, please post a comment below telling us what vegetable you would like Chef Ellis or CVI to grow in the garden this year, and why. Please ensure that I can reach you by posting some contact info, or by emailing at minimum your email address to me at playswithfood at yahoo dot com. The winner will be selected by random number generator on Tuesday March 8, and your comment must be posted by 10am that day. Good luck and thank you in advance for your interest and comments! We look forward to having fun playing with Ellis Cooley's food, from earth to table and hope to see you there!