Fun Showing Off Cleveland Food - Luxe (and Momocho)

Last weekend, we entertained our Chicago friend, food writer Cynthia Clampitt, on her first ever trip to Cleveland. This also gave us an opportunity to return to a couple of local favorites that we've missed, and to sample Chef Brian Okin's fare at Gordon Square's Luxe Kitchen & Lounge. 

We began Saturday evening, at Ohio City's Momocho,1835 Fulton Road (216.694.2122). Cynthia's research project involved corn (as will her next book), so we took her to the most corn-centric restaurant we could identify. Alas, I have no photos to share, due to the dark and red-lit room, but I assure you that Chef-Owner Eric Williams (who was off on family duty that night) and his amazing staff are whipping up Nuevo Latino food that is worth a drive from almost anyplace; Cynthia pronounced it her new favorite restaurant (and given that she has about 1,200 to choose from in her hometown, that's pretty high praise).

We began with a trio of the made-to-order guacamoles (which the house kindly comped, after our 9:30pm reservation had slipped into the next hour before we were seated). The table favorite was the honey crisp apple, mango, thai basi, chile serrano, followed closely by the garlic confit, bleu cheese, chile verde version and the mix-in featuring pickled corn, crab, chile, chipotle. Cynthia and I both enjoyed the beer braised short rib tamales, and Bob chose the Waygu Beef Albondigas (meatballs). We also shared a side order of light and tender smoked gouda tamale dumplings. Though we were too sated to even look at the dessert menu, our server treated us to a small ramekin of Momocho's signature dessert, Capirotada: gingersnap, jalapeno bread pudding with burnt sugar and whipped crema. This sweet-spicy-warming-soothing treat is highly recommended. We returned home wondering how we'd ever be hungry for brunch the next morning.

Sunday morning brought us to Luxe, 6605 Detroit Avenue, Cleveland (216-920-0600). We had been wanting to get there since Brian Okin (co-founder of Dinner in the Dark, and former Chef at Verve and Fountain restaurants) took over the kitchen. I had actually given Cynthia about a half dozen options (we're not big Sunday Brunch eaters) and she chose Brian's menu. As luck would again have it, family duties called  Brian away, and we were left in the hands of Brian's able staff. Luxe is the third Cleveland restaurant I know of that lives in a converted bank space (after Dante in Tremont and Crop in Ohio City) and it also contains an interesting assortment of recycled/repurposed/classic decor.

Our repast began with a basket of freshly baked muffins and butter:

Between this basket and our salad plates, we had the opportunity to taste several different muffin flavors, including blueberry, cranberry, cherry, and my favorite, pumpkin. 

The beet salad at the top of the menu intrigued us, so we decided to order one to share. After Cynthia asked if it would be of sufficient size for us to put in the middle and have at (which the server answered in the affirmative), three plates identical to the one above appeared. This Baby Beet Salad included small rounds of pickled radish that I (who normally finds radish too bitter) really enjoyed, arugula, a generous slice of avocado,  and a topping of crunchy nuts and cheese.

Scramble with chorizo, hot peppers, manchego, tomato-cilantro salsa.

We all swooned over our taste of Bob's plate; fresh chorizo (sourced from the West Side Market, we were told) will do that.

Eggs Benny: English Muffin, Smoked Salmon, Poached Eggs, Hollandaise

Knowing that our dinner plans included Lolita and lots of pork, I decided to go to the marine side with brunch. The salmon was assertive without being fishy (in a belly lox kind of way), and the Hollandaise accompanied it well (a more mild salmon might have drowned in the richness). We all loved the fried potatoes that came on each plate, and were surprised to learn that no animal fats were involved in their preparation; they were that tasty. 

With price points between $6 and $16 for entrees (most in the $9-12 range), Luxe offers tasty fun for everyone on Sunday morning. Now all we need to do is drag ourselves back westward to sample Brian's dinner menu! 

Fun Playing With Birthday Dinner in the Dark

As readers of this blog know, I am a huge fan and supporter of Cleveland's Dinner in the Dark, and its three founding Chefs - Brian Okin, Jeff Jarrett and Ellis Cooley. I was a little surprised and a lot delighted when they announced that July's edition would be on July 11. Took all of the usual planning out of my birthday this year, which was kind of nice. And to make it even better, Brian asked me if there were any particular chefs I might like for them to invite. First - I asked him to cook, since he seldom has at DITD. Next - I gave him a short list. Of course, I was in the dark as to who actually said "yes."

The dinner was held at the newly opened Market Garden Brewery, next to the West Side Market in Ohio City. We arrived a little early and walked through the spacious outdoor beer garden, into the restaurant, and began with a stop at one of the two comfy bars for a "beer cocktail" that totally pleased the Birthday Girl: The Sweet & Stout. House-brewed St. Emeric's Stout is mixed with Pernod, Godiva Dark, Cynar and Aztec Chocolate Bitters. An unexpected combination that worked brilliantly as a pre-dinner drink.

Working our way into the back room, which looks like it can accommodate private parties up to at least 60 people, we took our seats and noticed the lovely centerpiece.

Buckeye Zakuska Featuring KJ Greens' Produce

Our host in all things cocktail, Joe DeLuca, announced that we would be enjoying the traditional accompaniment to zakuska (cold pickled vegetables) - ice cold vodka, provided by Buckeye Vodka out of Dayton Ohio. Let it be known throughout the land that yours truly not only tasted and enjoyed the KJ Greens radish, but actually had a second! And since our host venue produces craft beer, our meal was accompanied by the juice of the barley rather than wine this month.

David Chin of The Market Cafe & Wine Bar provided our amuse (as well as the intermezzo later in the meal):

The sweet smelling and tasting shrimp were accompanied by nori, fried noodles, KJ microgreens and a chili-soy dressing.

Our first course came from DITD co-founder Brian Okin, who enthusiastically embraced the "open mic night, jam session for chefs" concept with his dish:

Veal Calf Fries

Brian was "unavoidably delayed" coming up from the kitchen to describe his dish, so everyone dug in, still in the dark about what we were eating. The star of the plate was the perfectly fried orb at 12 o'clock in this photo. The contents were pink and so tender that it melted in the mouth - delicious! Sort of like a sweetbread, but not quite. What could it be? I guessed calf brains, which I knew couldn't be right because bovine brains are definitely a no-no these days. Turns out  that I wasn't that far wrong (depending on how you look at it) - "calf fries" are calf testicles that have been, well, fried. This version was served with two delicious relishes: corn, ramps, speck and radishes, and a warm roasted tomato marmalade. The final touch was a from-scratch carrot oil. All I can say after eating this is that we've gotta find this guy a restaurant to cook in!

Chef Rocco Whalen of Tremont's Fahrenheit offered a sort of "surf and turf" for the next course:

East Coast Tuna, Topped With Asian Dressing Over Salad and Sweet N Spicy Shortrib Slider

Simply beautiful and finger-licking good. Thank you Chef Rocco!

Ohio Beet Salad

Our next course came from Chef Mike Nowak, Executive Chef of sister restaurants Bar Cento and Market Garden Brewery. The salad included gorgeous Gold & Red Beets, Orange, Ohio Honey, and Chervil and was accompanied by creamy Lucky Penny Goat Cheese, Verbana and Black Truffle.

The intermezzo presented in an unusual fashion. First, an ice-filled glass:

 

Then - the opportunity to play with our food - thank you Chef David Chin!

Fresh Blackberry Puree

Mixed Melon Puree

The idea was to combine the flavors and textures to make your own snow cone. Most refreshing!

I was already feeling rather full by the time the next course, chock full of seafood, made its way to the table:

Cioppino (fish stew)

Scallop, shrimp, mussels, squid (including tentacles!), and lobster, topped with grilled bread and bathed in a velvety tomato-based sauce prepared by Bar Cento and Market Garden Chef De Cuisine Adam Lambert.

The final savory course was presented by another of the chefs I'd suggested to Brian - this will be the ONLY DITD where they'll be allowed to do a course, because they (usually) provide a complimentary meal to all of the volunteers involved in putting on each month's event every month! And what a doozy Chefs Walter Hyde and Scott Slagle (of Fat Casual BBQ) came up with!

Picnic on a Plate

"Chicken & Grits" - whole bone-in breast split and stuffed with Gorgonzola cheese, coated with grits and smoked - and a dry-rubbed smoked rib, rest atop a green salad, julienne of sweet potato, whole strawberries, candied pecans, and the meats were topped with BBQ sauce made from Ohio Honey, fresh strawberry and local maple syrup. The Gorgonzola and the grits picked up such a unique and smoky flavor. This dish succeeded in evoking the picnic of my dreams; thank you Walter and Scott!







Dessert came from the able hands of Megan Jenny of The Cleveland Cupcake Company, though most of this went into a box for Tuesday's breakfast because I was too darn full to eat it. Each bite was wonderful, and if you are anywhere near Cleveland Heights, you need to give her sweets a try.

I feel truly honored that DITD was held on my birthday and it was a most fitting way to celebrate. Next month's edition will be held on a Saturday rather than a Monday, but will otherwise remain true to the formula ($65 plus tax and tip gets you 6 courses+ of food, wine pairings, and a fabulous time) at a unique location - the Culinary Vegetable Institute. I hope you can join us on August 27 at 6:30pm for another amazing dinner, which will benefit as always a local charity. July's event benefited Cleveland's Saint Martin de Porres High School; August's dinner will benefit Veggie U, which brings the joys of local, sustainable and whole food into elementary school classes!

Fun Playing with Food in the Dark

Cleveland's place as a jewel among food towns just got a little higher and a little brighter. And all because we ate in the dark. Well, not exactly - the name of the event was "Dinner in the Dark," and the concept was that a bunch of Cleveland chefs would take over a restaurant and cook what they wanted to cook, for a change. They and their restaurants donated all of the labor, and worked with their purveyors to obtain donated food, and wine (the wine purveyor also donated proceeds on retail wine bottle sales) so that a donation could be made to a worthy charity at the end of the evening. The concept grew from there, and Bob and I were among 60 or so lucky participants in the first event, Monday night. For $50 per person, a full house at Brian Okin's Verve Restaurant got to enjoy a six+ course dinner paired with wines. The evening offered several opportunities to direct additional revenues to the chosen charity, Veggie U. And to top it all off - Mister The Chef's Garden - The Culinary Vegetable Institute  - Veggie U. himself, Farmer Lee Jones, was in the house! And as if that wasn't enough - Farmer Jones provided all of the produce for the dinner. We couldn't wait to taste.

Autumn Snapper - Joe Deluca from Apothecary

This welcoming cocktail consisted of Aperol, Campari, Cinar (Artichoke Liquor), Freshly Pressed Honey Crisp Apples, Heirloom Tomatoes, and Micro Parsley.

Bob was the first in our group to say something to the effect of, "the heck with ceremony - I'm tasting these tomatoes in the bottom of the glass." We who followed his lead were well rewarded by amazing tomato flavor.

Amuse Bouche: Stuffed Micro Bell Pepper

This delectable morsel was prepared by Chef Brian Toomey of Verve. Chef's Garden Micro Bell Pepper was stuffed with a combination of Butternut Squash-Goat Cheese Puree, Pepita (Pumpkin Seed) and Bacon - an auspicious beginning!

Garlic Pudding - Chef Matt Mathlage of Light Bistro

Heirloom garlic pudding, gai lan (Chinese Broccoli) sauteed in duck fat, pesto broth, compressed squash, rye bread puree, pickled black radish. Now, I love garlic, so the notion of Garlic Pudding was just fine with me.  I loved the perfect balance of pungent garlic and creamy pesto, offset by the gentle bitterness of the broccoli.  My dining companions were wowed by the pickled radish (I'm not a huge radish fan myself). The only negative any of us could come up with was the lack of bread to scrape every bit of the goodness off of the bottom of the serving bowls!

Pig Ear - Chef Chris Hodgson of Dim and Den Sum

A certain Cleveland chef  appears on a Food Network show called "The Best Thing I Ever Ate." If I was on that show (or picking a dish for it), these pig ears, confited in duck fat and served with roasted delicata squash, dandelion greens and frisee, sour polenta, pepper & lemon vinaigrette, would have a starring role. The texture of Chef Hodgson's pig ear was like no other pig's ear I've ever sampled before, bringing together intense creaminess with crispy porkiness. Some of it actually stuck to my teeth - and I liked it, I liked it!!

Deconstructed Caesar Salad: Lettuce, Flash Fried Egg Yolk, Egg White Meringue, White Anchovy, Crouton, Olive Oil - Chef Adam Bostwick of Melange

Another amazing dish. Though my flash-fried egg yolk was not runny as the Chef intended, it was the exception among our group, and still tasted delicious. The deconstructed dressing worked nicely, in part, because the white anchovy popped with flavor without overpowering the other ingredients.

Intermezzo

This Lemon Verbana Sorbet was the second contribution from Chef Brian Toomey of Verve. It was exquisite, and the perfect way to clean said popping white anchovy off of the palate.

Dry Pack Scallops with Coconut Curry Sauce, Heirloom Cauliflower, Moroccan Oil - Chef Brandt Evans of Blue Canyon Restaurant

IMHO, Brandt Evans is the undisputed sea scallop king of Cleveland - no one makes them better.  The curry sauce added to the flavor parade, and the radish garnish was sliced so thinly that even I could enjoy it. That heirloom cauliflower burst with so much good flavor that Bob actually tracked Farmer Jones down in the Men's Room to learn where he might get seeds for next year's garden. Ok, I lied - it was happenstance that they met and discussed the cauliflower in that location. But yes, it was that tasty.

Short Rib with Chocolate Sauce, Polenta, Root Vegetables, Sorrel - Chef Jeff Jarrett, North End Hudson

We should have been too full to do justice to this plate. Still - the aroma, as the servers began to distribute them, got us all salivating. While the concept of beef and chocolate is hardly novel, Chef Jeff Jarrett really nailed this one and made it his own. Was it the chocolate-infused sauce? The melt-in-your-mouth beef?  The creamy, yet toothy polenta? The amazing vegetables, featuring turnips that had us oohing and ahhing (and who oohs and aahs over turnips, after all?)? I have no idea - but I think that I could happily eat a plate of this dish for dinner every day during the winter and never tire of it.

Beet Cake with Creme Fraiche Ice Cream and Chocolate Ganosh - Chef Ellis Cooley, AMP 150

Yes, you read that correctly - Beet Cake. A flour and sugar dessert, starring beets. Another brilliant use of the garden from Chef Ellis Cooley. Though the ice cream melted swiftly, the taste was worth the hurry to eat it (and the cake loved being immersed in the creamy puddle that remained). Chocolate provided the counterpoint, as did the "tire track" of candied garden flavor across the top of the plate.

The first Dinner in the Dark embodied the very concept of Fun Playing With Food, and both the Chefs and the diners had way too much fun! We also learned a little bit more about Veggie U, which takes the gardening experience into public school classrooms around the country by setting them up with the start of a fully functional garden (including composting materials). Veggie U. thus tries to bridge the knowledge and experience gap for school children who are otherwise part of the national disconnect between human beings and the food we eat.  I cannot imagine a more worthy cause for people passionate about food.

The next Dinner in the Dark is scheduled for November 15, 2010 at Verve. I do not know the chef lineup or the charity to benefit yet - but reservations are highly recommended.