Fun Playing with Pho . . . in Solon!

On November 23, 2010, Cleveland food writer Douglas Trattner posted a hilarious video he made to YouTube, which represents, he says, "a conversation I seem to have on a daily basis" as a food writer. Doug is one of my idols, in that he has successfully transitioned from a career in law to a career in food. I had a good laugh when I first saw this, and I hope that you do too, though there is also an eerie truthfulness to the story. But surely, it is mere coincidence that Doug's video protagonist lives in the same town that I live in, Solon Ohio.

I moved to Solon for reasons very different than the person depicted in Doug's video - I have no children (I find the husband quite sufficient), but Bob wanted to move as far away from "the city" as I'd let us after we married. I'm a city girl, but I respected his desire for a big  vegetable garden in our back yard and we both wanted a big kitchen to cook in. Thus, Solon was our compromise. And Doug's humor about Jimmy Daddona's Restaurant notwithstanding - there aren't a lot of bold dining choices out our way (though if you read this blog, you'll find the ones that we do have!).

Doug's video flooded back into my frontal lobes over the last week when we stopped into a place that was for years a ubiquitous Americanized Chinese take out joint called "Mandarin Express." If you wanted cheap and quick fried rice, egg rolls or General Tso's Chicken, this was a  popular choice, located in the same strip mall containing Solon's lone supermarket, Giant Eagle, at the intersection of Route 91 (SOM Center Road) and Route 43 (Aurora Road). I knew that the space had been remodeled to accommodate dining in a few years ago, and that the owners tried bringing in Karaoke, but the food was always gloppy and unimpressive - the epitome of suburban blah. So we had ignored it. 

Until recently, when a local monthly ad-zine included a half-page ad for Mandarin Express that referred to it as "Mandarin Pho Express" and that stated that Vietnamese cuisine was now on the menu. I pulled the page out and mentioned to Bob that we should try it. The coupons expired at the end of November, and as I pitched the page, I reminded Bob that we should try it. 

Well, the Sunday before last, home from a weekend in Cincinnati, snow falling, with no dinner in the house, we finally tried it. And I am not only pleased that we did, but hope to get the word out, to those of you who appreciate home-style cooking in a very casual atmosphere, to give Mandarin Pho Express a try.

Mandarin Pho Express is a Mom and Pop operation. Pop is owner and chef Shan, who hails from Hong Kong. Mom is Shan's wife Kathy, a native of Vietnam. They have two adorable small children, who you may well meet if you stop by.

So the Sunday before last, we slid in from the cold, itching for some hot and tasty Pho. We were the only customers at first, though another couple (of Asian extraction - always a good sign when dining in an ethnic restaurant) eventually joined us. A few take out orders also came through while we were dining. Kathy explained that the Vietnamese menu was her idea and inspiration. She missed these things, and so taught her husband to re-create some of her favorite comfort foods. There are also three Korean dishes on the Noodles section of the menu, inspired by Korean Solonites who are regular customers and who requested them, so Chef Shan added them. The menu also lists four options for Pad Thai.

We started with an order of Cha Gio - crispy spring rolls stuffed with pork, mushrooms and onions and served with fish-sauce based Vietnamese dipping sauce.

 

 

The flavors were fresh and the skins crispy - but not as hot to the touch or throughout the interior as I expected. I asked Kathy about the spring rolls on our second visit - they are made from scratch in house.  I'm guessing that they freeze them. Temperature notwithstanding, we enjoyed both the rolls and the dipping sauce.

Condiments for Pho

Pho Tai - Beef Noodle Soup with Slices of Rare Beef

The tender, pink beef slices fully cook in the steaming hot broth. While I cannot shake the soft spot in my heart and palate for Asiatown's Superior Pho, which is perhaps more assertively seasoned, this bowl of soup was deeply satisfying and very tasty. And two minutes from my house.

My Pho, topped with fresh mint and bean sprouts, a squeeze of lime, and a ring of Sriracha sauce - perfect!

Pho Tai Bo Vien - Beef Noodle Soup with Beef Balls and Rare Beef

Bob's selection was the same as mine, with the addition of beef meatball halves. I would have liked the meatballs a little hotter (they must have been very deeply chilled before being heated and added to the soup) - but the flavors and textures were lovely. Bob was delighted with his dish, and brought almost half of his bowlful home as leftovers. Doggie bag, anyone?

Saturday brought us back to Mandarin Express for lunch, after a trip to the North Union Farmers Market at Shaker Square. I wasn't sure if Chef Shan remembered us initially - he and Kathy were a little preoccupied with their little one, who wasn't feeling well. Again, the place was empty of customers, though a four top came through while we dined, and several take out orders.

I knew that I wanted to try the Vietnamese Black Pepper Beef appetizer I'd seen on the menu during our first visit; I'd wing it after that. 

Bo Luc Lac Appetizer -  Beef with Onion and Black Pepper

Though the tenderloin was nicely cooked, it lacked a strong black pepper zip. When I asked Shan about this, he offered to re-make it, explaining that when they first started serving the spicier fare, the locals would often find it too spicy, so they reduced the spice levels to ensure happy customers. We assured him that we understood and not to worry - and we still enjoyed the dish. However, should you want more authentic spicing on this (or any) dish, all you need to do is say that you like a lot of pepper and he will make it so! 

We loved the caramelized onions and the crunch of the lettuce with this. But we had barely dented the massive portion of steak (a tremendous value at $12) when our entree bowls came to the table. So we had a lot of leftovers, which was just fine with us! Yes Doug, we did take a second doggie bag home.

Mi Ga - Vietnamese Egg Noodle Soup with Chicken

This was Bob's entree - and I am pleased to know that such rich chicken noodle soup is so close to my house should I fall ill this winter!

Chef Shan brought us bowls for sharing - this was my taste of Bob's lunch. The toothy nuts and crispy shallots added great texture to the chickeny goodness!

Bun dac biet - House Special Vermicelli with Springroll and grilled pork slices, dipping sauce

Rice noodles were topped with succulently grilled pork slices, and covered a fresh cold salad of lettuce, cucumber, sprouts, cilantro, scallions and nuts. Mixed all together and drizzled with the fish-sauce based dipping liquid below, it was a hearty lunch. This springroll was blazing hot throughout, with lots of crunch and lots of mushrooms, which I found strangely appealing (I normally do not care for the texture of mushrooms).

Again, owing to the taste of the local clientele, the fish sauce and chilies were less prominent in the dip than they might otherwise have been. But the overall taste was delicious, and our hosts were eager to please in any way that they could. If you like your food authentically spicy, just tell them so and you will be rewarded.

We enjoyed our leftover beef cubes in breakfast Sunday morning. I caramelized the winter tomato slices from the take-out box, then added the beef, the thin sauce, and a lot more freshly ground black pepper to a saute pan - I let it thicken and braise a bit in the pan, then scrambled a couple of eggs and added fresh cilantro and scallion. We had four potato latkes (pancakes) left from Hanukkah last week - and the combination of egg, steak and pancake in a single bite turned out to be sublime. 

I don't belive that Mandarin Express has an alcohol license, and the room is very casual (clean, but the back end reflects the family nature of the place). The food is worthy of a stop if you are in the neighborhood and love a great bowl of noodles, a spring or summer roll, or some tasty meats and vegetables. Prices for these entree-sized bowls of goodness range from $7.50-9, and the Korean and Pad Thai options range from  $8-11. And I am thrilled to able to get a steamy, delicious bowl of Pho so close to my suburban home!

And so Doug - adventurous eating in the far reaches of Solon - who'd have thunk it? I surely didn't expect to find Vietnamese or Korean food in Solon, until I played with the food at Mandarin Pho Express. You can find Kathy and Shan and their multi-ethnic menu at 34214 Aurora Road, Solon, 440-248-9377 (no website, delivery available).

More Fun Playing with Superior Pho (Cleveland Asiatown)

My second visit to Cleveland Asiatown's Superior Pho came shortly after the first. I'm not sure if I should be sad or glad that Superior Pho is 20-30 minutes from my home - I'd be eating there every day in winter if it was closer, that's for sure!

This second visit began with a shared order of Cha Gio (spring rolls). Stuffed with pork, vegetables and cellophane noodles (bean threads), the rolls were incredibly hot and crispy.

These ranked up with the best spring rolls I've ever enjoyed. And I could drink that dipping sauce by the bowl - a little sweet, a little hot, a little vinegar - a delightful balance. 

Soup Accompaniments

Pho - I think it was Pho chin nam (noodle soup with well done brisket and flank)

My dining companion's lunch, which she consumed with relish!


Bun bo Hue (Tomato-based noodle soup with cayenne pepper, herbs, beef and pork)

My lunch. Noodle soup nirvana.





I have seen these round rice noodles in Asian groceries hundreds of times, and I've even used them in my cooking occasionally. But this was the first time that I'd ever had them in a restaurant dish, and I may swear off pho noodles in favor of these toothy strands - I just love gloppy, chewy-textured noodles (that's the noodle's texture, as opposed to an overcooked noodle). The cayenne made its presence known, but did not overwhelm the dish, which, like the spring roll dipping sauce, was perfectly balanced.


Taro Bubble Tea




Although I enjoyed my bubble tea, I have to say that I think I like Koko Bakery's version of this delicacy a little more. (Koko is at 3710 Payne Ave Cleveland, OH (216) 881-7600 (no website, menu here)). But tea was not the focus of my mission at Superior Pho - and the food at this unassuming little place continues to take after its name. Superior, fun food served with a smile!

Fun Playing With Pho

We are blessed in Cleveland to have a diverse Asiatown. Our Asiatown is so named because it includes a large number of restaurants representing many variations on Asian cuisine. We also have some excellent Asian restaurants on the East and West Sides of Cleveland. But New Year's Eve day brought us to Asiatown, with its free parking and awesome Pho options, for a pre-Rock and Roll Hall of Fame lunch.

I'd been to Superior Pho back when it was Pho Hoa (and the owner subsequently received a "cease and desist" letter from a national Pho chain with the same name and no outlets in Ohio, prompting the name change to channel its street address) and the chairs were metal folding chairs. Had a fabulous lunch - but I just hadn't gotten back. The only Pho experience Bob had in Asiatown was the cross-intersection rival Number 1 Pho. We'd had a nice lunch, but not an "omigosh we need to get back here" great lunch.

I'd won 2 tickets to the Rock Hall at the Rock N Roll BBQ Throwdown July 26. They expired 12/31/09, and that's when we intended to use them! But first - sustenance! We got that - and much more, at the fabulous Superior Pho, 3030 Superior Avenue, Cleveland, Ohio 44114, 216-781-7462 (no website). The chairs have been replaced with more sturdy, comfortable models!

We began with beverages. Bob ordered the Vietnamese Coffee, I ordered tea.

Coffee Brewed Tabletop

 

Bob, who was caffiene-deprived by the time I took these photos, really liked the strong, freshly brewed coffee. I took no photos of the tea - it looked like, well, tea. The menu described it as Jasmine tea. But it wasn't. It was rich and creamy, with hints of vanilla and coconut flavors. I asked our server, who at first insisted it was Jasmine, then said something about Lotus. He seemed afraid that if he said anything other than Jasmine, that I wouldn't like it (I assume there was a rational basis for that fear, like non-Asian customers sending it back). All I know is that it was mighty, mighty fine tea, and accompanied the food perfectly on a cold day. And I told him so.

Cleveland's own Iron Chef, Michael Symon, has sung the praises of Superior Pho's Bahn Mi, or Vietnamese Sandwich, so Bob and I knew we'd be sharing one.  I asked him to hold the cucumber, and with a surprised look, the server said "ok." I guess they don't get a lot of requests for that.

Banh Mi Thit (Vietnamese Sandwich on crispy French bread with homemade pate, roasted pork, no cucumber, fresh herbs, and mayonnaise sauce)

 

 

As in most things culinary, the Iron Chef was spot on - creamy pate, housemade meat, zingy sauce and crispy bread - a little bit of heaven on a bun. And a bargain at $3.95.

 

 Bo Bia (Rice paper rolls with Lap Cheong (Chinese Dried Sausage), Fried Egg, herbs, lettuce, rice noodles) 

 

 

Note the sear on the Lap Cheong, which helped to bring out the flavors.

Forget the Pho - I could have eaten a bowl of this peanut-sesame-soy infused dipping sauce!

Well, don't forget the Pho - we ordered the "small" bowls ($6.75 each) and found the portions more than ample. But more than that - the textures and flavors were simply perfect.

Pho Accompaniments - Bean Sprouts, Vietnamese Mint, Jalepeno Peppers, Lime

 

Pho Chin nam gau (noodle soup with eye round steak, fat brisket and flank) 

 

Bob's selection was wonderful - tender meats, perfectly seasoned beef broth, and rice noodles.

Pho Bo Vien (Noodle soup and meat balls)

The meat balls were a total contrast to the braised meats in Bob's dish - more toothy in texture, and less pronounced in flavor. But a gentle swipe of Hoisin Sauce and Sriracha paste from the table gave the meatballs the flavor balance they needed. I loved the beefy broth and crisp greens, and of course, the rice noodles.

We both loved playing with the Vietnamese delicacies served up at Superior Pho. I can't wait to go back. (Well, what do you know - a business meeting is scheduled there this week!)

Superior Pho remains a simple, family owned and run place at the back of the Golden Plaza. But the food, perfect for this snowy and cold time of year, is served with heart and soul along with the hoisin and Sriracha on the tables. We had fun playing with everything we tasted, and can't wait to sample more!