Fun Playing With Shanghai-ese Food

Now that trips and cooking events are over for a while, I hope to catch up on a backlog of photos and food adventures. For this segment, travel with me if you will to the wild and far reaches of Cliffside Park, New Jersey. Having recently read about Petite Soo Show on blogger Jason Perlow's Off the Broiler, I inquired as to whether any of the usual suspects would be willing to change the venue for an authentic Chinese meal on our first 2010 trip to NY from Sichuan cuisine to the foods of Shanghai. I was delighted that my companions were willing!

And so, after a seven-ish hour trek through Ohio, Pennsylvania, and rural New Jersey, we were the first to arrive at the restaurant.

Petite Soochow
607 Gorge Rd, Cliffside Park, NJ
(201) 313-1666 

(No website.) 

Ah - a wonderful sign. After seating us a communal table and staking out 7 places for us, our hostess brought us this dish of peanuts. All too often, even in very "Authentic Chinese" restaurants, the first item placed on the table in front of me is a dish of fried wonton wrappers. The dish of peanuts says to me: "we are prepared to give you authentic Chinese food if that is what you desire."  And boy oh boy did PSC deliver!

The first order of business was getting the kitchen started on two large steamers of Xiao Long Bao, with pork and crab (8 pieces per steamer). Since  Cleveland's C&Y Restaurant closed in 2008, we have been starved of these soupy, chewy delicacies. However, since they take a while to make (from scratch, as you will see), and since the Chinese don't distinguish courses outside of a banquet (each dish of food is served as it is ready) - the first item to our table was actually this:

Snow Pea Leaf with Garlic 

 

We all greatly appreciated that this dish came out first. Often, when ordering a Chinese meal including a vegetable dish like this, the vegetable comes out last, and we are too full to enjoy it. Here, since it came out first, we all dug in heartily!  The greens were cooked to perfection, and the garlic made the perfect contrast. 

 

Xiao Long Bao Under Construction 

I loved the plexiglass-enclosed, dumpling-making station right at the restaurant's entrance. I wish I could roll them so well! Made-to-order dumplings of any kind are rare in the restaurant world - having the Xiao Long Bao so freshly prepared meant we were in a special place.

 

Ok - I became positively giddy at the sight and smell of these, and couldn't hold the camera still enough for a good photo. Oh well.

 

There is no dumpling so delectable as a Xiao Long Bao. The liquid (which is so much more than just a soup) is so rich and thick that it chills into a jelly-like consistency. This makes it easy to apply a  spoonful of it to the inside of the dumpling, together with a savory ball of crab and pork meat. Sealed and steamed to almost bursting - these jewels were like a little taste of heaven.

 

Shanghai Style Chow Mein 

 

Gloppy noodle lovers of the world, unite! True Shanghai Noodles - which are thicker and chewier than even Japanese Udon - are hard to find. The other ingredients in the dish almost didn't matter to me - so long as I could chew those wonderful noodles. Fortunately, the pork and vegetables in the dish were also quite lovely. 

 

Special: Crab with Ginger and Scallions

This was one of several dishes listed on the door as a special of the day. And special it was! Crab that had to have been alive and kicking before it met the pot was expertly battered and stir-fried, then paired with a light, traditional sauce.

Finger licking good!

 
Pork Belly with Cabbage

As I sit here looking at the paper menu from PSC, I cannot determine for sure which dish this was. What I can tell you is that it had incredibly tender pork belly, cooked twice (first by braising the pork, then the final stir fry), firm bean curd, very toothy cabbage, mushrooms, and a light-texured but pleasantly spicy sauce. While I'm not a huge cabbage fan, this treatment won me over.

And how can you not love pork belly?

By this point, we were getting full - but we still had one more dish to go. I'd seen it on a table right near ours, and knew I had to have it:

 
Fish Head in Earthen Casserole

This photo does not do justice to the huge pottery that perched on the edge of the table offering a bounty of goodness - cheek meat is often the most tasty from any animal (if prepared well), yet it is the one that Westerners are most likely to eschew. I learned to love a version of fish head casserole, featuring salmon, at Cleveland's Wonton Gourmet, but it hasn't been on the menu there for a while.

Swimming (you should pardon the expression) in the tasty broth were whole fish heads and even a little collar. They were so tender that very little chopstick action was needed to break them up and make the treasures inside accessible. Also floating in the casserole were hunks of very firm, exquisitely fresh (an  adjective I usually reserve for fish or seafood) tofu, which provided a surprisingly tasty contrast to the fish parts as it absorbed flavors from the broth and everything else in it. As the last dish, unfortunately, we weren't really able to do this casserole full justice - but if you are a little daring, and Northern New Jersey is on your "to visit" list, I can't recommend this delicacy highly enough.

By this point, we were to stuffed to even consider the interesting looking desserts we saw (not really desserts in the Western sense, but a lovely selection of sweet buns). And though we were enjoying lingering at the table to talk and digest, the hostess asked us to please make room for more customers - yes, both dining rooms were full, and there was no place for those next up for a table (and there were several crowding the entrance) to wait. We gladly gave up our seats so others could enjoy. A restaurant this crowded on a Thursday night is a good thing!

For fun playing with authentic, yet approachable, Chinese food, you can't go wrong at Petite Soo Chow. And since it is just a few blocks from the Goerge Washington Bridge - I know that we'll be back!

Fun Playing with Jeff Jarrett's Food at North End, Hudson, Ohio

On June 23, 2009, Chef Jeff Jarrett took over the kitchen at North End in Hudson Ohio. I've known Chef Jeff's cooking since he was sous Chef to Matt Mathlage, first at The Leopard in Aurora, and then at Light Bistro in Ohio City. We last tasted his cooking while he was sous to Chef Dante Boccuzzi at Dante in Valley View. (On a related note, Chef Dante reports that he is looking forward to opening the new Dante in Tremont soon.)

Our friend Kris, haling from Cleveland but resident in Japan, is on her annual visit home - and since she'd enjoyed Jeff's cooking at two of the three prior incarnations, we very much wanted to include her in our first meal at North End under Jeff. Because the menu is still a work-in-progress as Jeff makes it his own, he asked if he could do a five course tasting for us. We were delighted to say yes!

So - seven of us EGullet folks assembled at North End last Thursday to enjoy what Jeff had to offer. Since we were a little early, Bob and I enjoyed a beer at the North End's beer bar, located right by the entrance. Several taps featured brews not commonly seen around these parts, and the coolers house a fabulous bottled beer selection.

North End owner Scott Kuebler is all about playing with food and drink. The tap beers averaged about $5 a pint, and the bottles were also very reasonably priced. As for wine - North End 's trademark is offering a large selection of wines by the bottle at $10 over retail, if enjoyed in-house. In addition, flights of all types are available for a custom tasting experience. I'm sad we haven't gotten to North End more often; we'll need to remedy that!

Scott offered to add wine pairings to our meal for an additional $20, which several of us accepted. As the evening went on, he really got into the "play with your food" spirit, and gave us two selections (one each white and red) per course, to get our feedback on the best choices to pair with Jeff's food. Unfortunately, I did not write them down - but I suspect that Scott kept careful track of what went best, and will expertly pair wine with Jeff's cuisine for all.

First Course:


Tomatoes and Watermelon, Many Accompaniments



Beautiful local tomatoes were served with a smorgasbord of tastes - sweet honeycomb, micro basil, herb de Provence goat cheese, black lava salt, olive oil and, most originally - whipped olive oil, which was almost butter-like.









I especially loved the darker tomatoes, which reminded me of the Black Crim heirloom we grow in our garden every summer (which we are anxiously watching for ripeness). But the best thing about this dish was the whimsy - multiple textures and flavors to pair with each of the watermelon and the various tomatoes. I loved it!

Course 2:


Scallops, Local Corn and Home-Made Bacon Ragout, Candied Hot Peppers

Scott told us that this is the dish that got Chef Jeff this gig - and that it is already on the menu. And rightly so - a simply amazing seasonal dish making the most of the things we love best and topped with a tasty corn sprout!



The scallops were very good quality and cooked perfectly. Below was the sweet/savory melange of corn and bacon and above, the sweet/hot stickiness of candied chilies. Bob was the only one to actually cut his whole chile pepper open and add to the dish - but I found the heat in the candied chilies sufficient.




We all pronounced this dish a winner.

Since the next two courses featured meat, Jeff offered fish options for the mostly non-meat eater at the table (or for any of us who preferred them). However, though he substituted the protein, he kept the remainder of the dishes the same.


Pheasant, Wrapped in House Cured Pancetta, Local Chanterelles, Brussels Sprouts, Pomegranate Sauce

We had some intense discussion about what the heck we'd be eating this course while we were waiting for it (fortunately, Scott had a Blackberry and looked "pheasant" up for us). But once we received it, there was no doubt what it actually was - delicious!



While it is true that pancetta makes everything taste better - the pheasant was farm-raised, and not gamey at all. What a shame that I don't like the texture of mushrooms (though I did taste a bit of the chantrelle - had it been pureed into a sauce, I would have loved it, but I just can't get over that mushroomy texture). The brussels sprouts-hater at the table pronounced the individual leaves most palatable, and everyone enjoyed this course. And the delicate chives, like the corn sprout in the previous dish, were not just for show - nibbling them with the pheasant meat added a whole new tasty dimension of flavor to the dish.


Halibut, with the Brussels Sprout-Chantrelle Treatment

My taste of the fish was terrific - pristine fish, well cooked.

Next course:


Pork Belly, Asian Slaw, Caramelized Peanut and Chile Dressing, Tamarind Caramel







It was a toss-up, we agreed, which dish was better - the scallops or this - and heck, there was no real need to choose! I knew from the first bite that this had to be a Berkshire hog (and Chef Jeff confirmed that it was) - and the belly was perfect - tender, succulent, and the fat just melted in the mouth. It didn't need a thing.

The slaw underneath was very tasty - and tastier yet accompanied by the Tamarind Caramel. I would have eaten as much of the Caramel as was on the plate - heck, I could probably have eaten a whole plate of it, it was that tasty!





Seared Tuna with Asian Slaw and Tamarind Caramel

This photo does not do justice to the meaty tuna, seared perfectly and raw inside, ribboned with lots of fish fat. While I wouldn't trade my pork belly for it - it was a worthy substitute for the non-carnivorous.

Dessert:


Local Peaches and Blackberries, Multiple Forms

The dessert was the only dish that had a swing and a miss, though we all agreed that we liked it (it was not a strike out, just a swing and miss in an otherwise successful at-bat).





The caramelized peach half was loaded with Blackberry Espuma (or foam - Jeff hasn't completely cut his ties with the molecular gastronomy he did with Chef Mathlage!), and perched atop a refreshing ginger vanilla yogurt. Peach Salsa sat atop a spoon, which also held a perfect blackberry, for easy dipping into the yogurt. But the Blackberry Caviar didn't quite do what Jeff was hoping it would - it was actually almost neutral in flavor (a couple of table-mates got a little bitter taste). No harm done, just not as spectacular an ending as Jeff was hoping for. Still, very refreshing and not overwhelming, considering the generous portions of each of the preceding four courses. We pronounced this dinner a tremendous success, and look forward to sampling more of Chef Jeff's goodness soon!

Thursday, August 20, North End will host Chicago's Goose Island Brewery for a beer tasting dinner (at the incredible price of $40) - we hope to be there.

North End has always been a great place to play with wine and beer. The food was always good too - but is now even better with the addition of Chef Jeff Jarrett. Jeff promises to continue to emphasize the locally produced, fresh ingredients he featured in this dinner, and that is what we like to eat! North End is highly recommended for fun playing with local, delicious, creative food.

Even More Fun Playing With Birthday Treats!

Ok, I promise to stop belaboring this birthday thing. But for me, it is the one day of the year where I refuse to allow myself any guilt or denial about food. It is a day to play with my food with abandon (sometimes, more than one day, as happened this year).

Several weeks ago, I had decided to try to score the Chef's Table at Lola for my birthday dinner. I was so happy to succeed - it can be a tough ticket to get on a Friday night. The down side of this is that there are only six seats. The up side of this, however, is a steak-eyed view of the kitchen (complete with sound and heat), which, if you are as much of a food junkie as I am, is almost as much fun as eating the food. I decided the solution to the limited seating would be to adjourn to the Velvet Tango Room for cocktails after dinner, and to invite others to join us there.

We arrived on East Fourth Street around 5:40pm (the Chef's Table books at 6pm and 9pm) and stepped out into the beautiful sunshine. We met our friend Edsel on the street, and together marveled at how alive East Fourth has become. Most of the restaurants were either open to the outdoors, or had a patio (including, by the way, Lola), and people were walking, sitting, eating, drinking and just generally having a great time. This is just the kind of "shot in the arm" downtown Cleveland really needed, and it was great to experience it!

We took our seats at the Lola Chef Table and awaited our remaining dining companions. Edsel and I decided to try the Pomegranite-Fig "Martini" and Bob opted for an Erdinger Weissbock.



While the drink was very tasty, it was a little sweet. Remembering how warm it can get at this table, I decided to have one of these beers as well - it is a big, malty, refreshing brew.

By now, you have no doubt noticed the only remaining downside of dining at the Lola Chef's Table - the profusion of red colors and the intense yellow of the table surface play heck with point-and-shoot photography. So - work with me.


The Line Keeps the Food Moving

Even when Michael Symon is not in the house (as was the case last night), his crew flawlessly executes his vision and turns out consistent, amazing food. We wondered where Executive Chef Derek Clayton might be - and we were told he was "busting suds" because a dishwasher had called off. That's the way this business goes - one minute you're on "Iron Chef" - the next minute, you're in the dishroom because it needs done.

Derek did emerge and take his place at the pass before we got too far along. We decided to start our eating by sharing two plates of the daily Charcuterie (each plate is enough for 2-3 people). We put that order in and pondered appetizers.

Before the Charcuterie, however, we were asked to be test subjects for a "dish in progress." Experiment on me, Professor Clayton, please!


Apricot-Glazed Fried Pork Belly Over Sliced Mango with Salad of Greens, Radish, Jicama and Lime

Slow cooked Berkshire pork belly was deep-fried in pork fat, then plated with the goodies listed. We told Derek that they need to get this onto the menu!





Oh, yes - we'd ordered Charcuterie, hadn't we?






Venison salami, duck prosciutto, bresaola, duck rillette, and a very rich sausage (we're all blanking on the name of that one), Pickled Ramps, Mini-Pickles, Brioche Toast and Stone Ground Mustard


Ramps and Brioche


Mustard


Venison Salami


Duck Rillette


I think this was the "mystery meat" - it melted in the mouth!


Duck Prosciutto

This was my favorite. I think. It was so hard to choose!


My Plate

Chef Derek suggested spreading a bit of Rillette on the toast, then adding a little mustard. It was heavenly. And, let the record reflect that not only did I taste the mini-pickle - I - for the first time in my life - liked it! I liked it so much that I ate another! A miracle at the Chef's table of Lola!





We now turned to ordering our appetizers and mains. But Chef Derek was not through experimenting with us yet. Oh no - not by a long shot. You know that birthday phrase about "a pinch to grow an inch?" Well, Chef Derek fed us a taste of something guaranteed to add an inch - but it tasted so good that none of us cared!

Crispy Beef Marrow

Let me say that again - crispy beef marrow. As in melt-in-your-mouth, rich, fried, plate-licking-good! Chef said they serve this delicacy with the Ribeye Steak - so it is on the menu if you want to try it. We told him - this deserves to be its own dish!









Accompanying the marrow nuggets was a selection of flat-leaf parsley, pickled onions, lemon wedges, pesto and coarse sea salt, for each diner to finish each bite to taste.


Deconstructed


Reconstructed



Um, well, yes, we did actually order appetizers. Thankfully, Bob and I decided to share one instead of ordering one for each of us.


Fresh Berkshire Bacon, Cornbread, Coleslaw, BBQ

While this was the same cut of meat Chef Derek had served to us earlier - this was a completely different treatment of it. Bob was amazed at the fluffy texture of the cornbread, and the zippy sauce and cool slaw complimented the meat perfectly.




Crispy Sweetbreads, Leeks, Blue Cheese, Mushrooms

Truth be told - I can take sweetbreads or leave them. Most of the time. My taste of this treatment was nothing short of dazzling. The combination of the pristine quality of the meat and the skilled preparation left me wanting more!



One person at the table got Oysters Mignonette, which I did not get a photo of. She was very happy with them.

Appetizers over - time for mains!


Beef Hanger Steak, Pickle Sauce, Chilies

Bob's plate of beef was served with Lola Fries (which I didn't get a photo of this time). It was perfectly medium-rare and delicious. Bob's leftovers from this dish made a breakfast of Steak and Eggs and Potatoes for BOTH of us this morning.


Beef Shortrib, Root Vegetables, Mushrooms, Gremolata

My taste of this dish paid off the highest for texture/flavor - probably because of the sous vide preparation. The veggies included fingerling potatoes and baby turnips.


Alaskan King Salmon Filet, Tomato, Avocado, Cucumber, Radish

Bet you thought this was mine! Well, you'd be wrong! As much as I love fresh fish, and as much as I trust Lola with it (and Lola is one of the few Cleveland places I do trust with it) - I didn't come out to Michael Symon's restaurant on my birthday to eat fish! However, my taste of this confirmed what I just said about trusting Lola - it was fabulous. But what I had was better!


Lamb Loin Chops, Merguez, Cous Cous, Fava Beans

This entree was perfection on a plate. Two simply prepared loins of Colorado lamb, accompanied by a tender, house made lamb (with a bit of pork fat) sausage patty (merguez), toothsome Israeli Cous Cous, fresh fava beans and a gentle jus that did nothing to upstage the marvelous flavors.



Lola did indeed make my special day, well, special. But, they were not finished yet!

Pastry Chef Cory Barrett dropped over to say hello. He suggested that he send up a selection of desserts, since we were missing his new dessert menu debut by one day, and of course we said "yes!" Chef Cory had some wonderful news for us. Not only is he engaged to the engaging Kerry, but he and his soon-to-be have a new business venture in the pipeline. Now, don't panic - Cory is NOT leaving the Symon empire. What the Barretts will be adding, however, is a new pastry shop to be located at Eton. Hmmm - Sushi for lunch then pastry for dessert - this could be something really special! The new place will, among other things, furnish desserts to Lola and Lolita, and they hope to have it open before the end of the year. We wish them much success!

After our chat, and a little time to digest, the following desserts appeared:






Starting from the left: Zucchini cake topped with vanilla ice cream and a cherry, "Tropical Drink" - a summery, piña colada-like concoction with sorbet and the flavors of coconut and pineapple. Last, and most unusual, bleu cheese and mango with caramel sauce and plump berries. Jeff, our server, suggested that we start with the Bleu Cheese.



This is the second time in two weeks I genuinely liked, make that loved, a serving of Bleu Cheese. This experience (and the pickles I enjoyed earlier) demonstrate the potential benefits to be gleaned when one is willing to try everything - even if you didn't like it last time you tried it. You never know. And who'd have thunk of combining caramel with Bleu Cheese? And mango. Cory. And it works.





The other two items were creamy and satisfying.



The zucchini cake was perfectly tender and moist (and a great play on the "local and sustainable" theme, as there is already an abundance of local zucchini around here), and cherries are peaking about now. And how can you not love house-made ice cream?





I ate this one last - it made the least impression, but we'd been drinking sauternes with this course, and it was getting late . . . I know I really liked it and that there were NO dessert leftovers at our table.



How can you not love a dessert with a cheesy cocktail umbrella sticking out of it?

And so, after saying good night to our gracious hosts and prying ourselves away from the Chef's Table, we finished the evening at the Velvet Tango Room, with more company and amazing cocktails. I watched some of the Progressive Field fireworks from the back room while sipping a Dark and Stormy. Life just doesn't get any better than that.

The calendar having advanced to 12 July, it is time for me to stop playing with birthday food for 2008. Well, I've still got leftover Birthday Cake in the fridge . . . that could be fun . . . . .