Monday, February 6, 2012

Fun Playing With East Side Pho

Happily for East Siders, a new, family owned Pho option has recently emerged in the nearby suburb of Woodmere (right next to Beachwood) that has a nice atmosphere for dining in and pretty good food at reasonable prices. Bowl of Pho opened quietly, late in 2011. After three lunches there, I can recommend it for fun playing with Pho (Vietnamese Noodle Soup) and some other tasty offerings. 27339 Chagrin Blvd, Woodmere, OH 44122, phone 216.831.1730.

The first lunch began with my favorite flavor of Asian Bubble Tea. This drink consists of strong brewed tea, an added flavor of choice (mine was taro), generously sized balls of toothy tapioca, and in this version (according to the menu) - non-dairy creamer. Whether the latter was a nod to the considerable Jewish population in the area (who might be less comfortable mixing dairy with meat) or not, the replacement of the more typical cream or condensed milk with the non-dairy product is probably why both the texture and taste suffered. Koko Bakery offers a far tastier Taro Bubble Tea. However, one must travel to Asiatown to procure it.


For that first lunch, my dining companion and I ordered very similar dishes. He opted for the Phở Tái –  rice noodles and sliced beef eye round (cooked rare or well), garnished with cilantro and thinly sliced green and red onions. I went for the more adventurous Phở Đặc Biệt – deluxe beef noodle, which for a dollar more included rice noodles, sliced beef eye round (cooked rare or well done), meat balls, flank steak (cooked well-done), beef brisket, and tendon, and was likewise garnished with cilantro and thinly sliced green and red onions.

First out to the table was a plate of garnishes for both diners:



Whether deliberate or inadvertent, I appreciated the "yin-yang" look of the chili paste and hoisen sauce.


Above is the regular beef, cooked rare.


And above is the deluxe, as delivered to the table.


Add jalapeno, bean sprouts, basil and a spritz of lime. 




While the overall impression of the dish won't make me forget the richly complex broth offered by Asiatown's Superior Pho anytime soon, this was a very satisfying bowl of pho. I would have liked it a bit hotter in temperature, which our excellent server apologized for when I mentioned it to him (in response to his question about how we enjoyed the meal as we were paying the check). I have every confidence from his response that had I said something when the bowl was delivered to the table, it would have been rectified; I had chosen not to interrupt the flow of the lunch earlier. 

Different beverage selection for the second lunch:


According to the menu, the Thai Iced Tea is also made with non-dairy creamer rather than the traditional condensed milk. This drink did not suffer the same funky textural issue as the Bubble Tea had, and the taste was most enjoyable. 

My second dining companion opted for the same dish as my first dining companion had:

Phở Tái 

I wanted to change things up a bit, so after the same condiment service as before, 



the following bowl appeared:

Phở Gà – Vietnamese chicken noodle soup

This soup, served piping hot, luxuriated with flavors and textures, though the all-white-meat chicken itself was a tad bland. I actually liked this soup more than the Pho, but I want to try the Pho again at a hotter temperature before making a final judgment about it.

After garnishes added


My dining companion was in the mood for a sweet ending, so we decided to share a dessert.

Chè Khoai Cao – Sweet taro dessert








The menu describes this dish as "slow cooked taro roots with tapioca and coconut milk."  Served warm or cold (we had it warm), this was a most unusual offering. We both enjoyed it, and I'd happily eat it again, but it is not your typical sugar-sweet dessert - more of a creamy dessert soup, which is not uncommon in Asian culture. Had you been overly generous in your application of chile to your entree, this would be a perfect way to put out the fire.

For the third visit, the Pho was back on my radar, but then it hit me - this was Friday. Bowl of Pho offers a couple of items as "weekend only," and there was one that I very much wanted to try - and so, while my dining companion, for the third straight lunch ordered the Phở Tái (each of the three gentlemen was, after all, trying Bowl of Pho for the first time, so no surprise that they went for the signature dish), noodles were not on my plate this time!

The meal began with a beverage - this time, hot Jasmine tea. The menu kids not when it describes this drink as "Jasmine Hot Tea Pot:"


This tea pot was not only hot, it was heavy! The cast iron meant that the tea, which needed to brew from leaves, came to the table hot and stayed hot.



And after the first pot was consumed, a second pot was offered. Nice!

Since they are already included twice, the photos of the condiment plate and Bob's soup are omitted here, and up next is the weekend-only special item:

Bánh Xèo – Meat Crepe
According to the menu, the Meat Crepe is a "Vietnamese crepe stuffed with shrimp, lean pork, and bean sprouts. Served with mint, coriander, cucumbers, romaine lettuce, and house lime sauce on the side." This made-from-scratch dish is worth a weekend visit to Bowl of Pho! 




The traditional way to eat this dish is to place a portion of the crepe and fillings into a lettuce leaf, top as desired with the tangy house-made carrot salad, cucumbers, mint, and coriander leaves, then roll up and dip into the lime sauce and eat!  


The crepe (made from egg and rice flour) was exquisite - light and airy, with a little bit of crunch from the grill. The proteins were equally tasty. The chunks of pork had been grilled to perfection, and the large-size shrimp (which bore no detectable traces of standard seafood chemistry in taste or smell) likewise tasted delightfully of shrimp and of the grill. 


This dish could easily feed two people if they started with an appetizer first. But this assumes that you'd be willing to share it! 

Bowl of Pho is a delightful new option for fun playing with Asian food on Cleveland's east side. They are open for lunch and dinner every day except Tuesday. Though their on-line menu suggests the availability of alcoholic beverages (and the space contains a lovely bar area), it appears that all of the legals haven't been worked out for that department just yet.

Service was exemplary during all three visits. So, if you are craving a Bowl of Pho and you don't want to schlep down to Asiatown to get it, head over to Bowl of Pho for fun playing with Vietnamese food!

Bowl of Pho on Urbanspoon

Monday, November 14, 2011

Fun Playing with 24 Cleveland Chefs for a Great Cause

This marked my second year as a judge for the March of Dimes Signature Chefs Auction. Once again, our panel of four, and more importantly, over one hundred guests who donated $150 per person, were treated to an amazing array of donated culinary delights. Twenty four of Cleveland's finest chefs were represented. The panel enjoyed 20 savory creations and four desserts, which were judged in their own separate categories this year. The event raises funds and awareness for the March of Dimes Northeast Ohio Division, and the important work that they do in Northeast Ohio to help premature and at risk babies and their families and to prevent birth defects. This was the event's first year at Windows on the River, located in the building formerly known at The Powerhouse, in the Flats, and possessed of amazing views of Cleveland!

Apologies for some incomplete descriptions. We experienced a little logistical confusion with the new venue, and so some of the dishes were presented a little too quickly, or the description got drowned out by noise, such that I couldn't get good notes on all of them; I've improvised where I could. I invite anyone with corrections or additional info to please post in the Comments. Each dish was judged on three criteria: Creativity-Originality, Presentation-Appearance and Taste-Flavor. Here are the savory contestants:

Jerk Chicken Potsticker, Black Bean Salsa - Rachel Spieth, Georgetown; dish presented by Rose


Our first dish was among the tastiest. Crispy outside, steamingly savory inside, black bean creaminess accompanying.

Sweet Potato Coconut Soup - Matthew Anderson, Umami Asian Kitchen



This comfort food offered rich texture and fall flavors. Gluten free and vegan, to boot!

Tuna Slider - James Bogart, McCormick and Schmick's Seafood Restaurant




This "burger" was topped with a cucumber-wakami salad, Wasabi Mayo and pickled ginger. Most enjoyable.

House-Cured Gravlax, House Preserved Lemon, Lime Creme Fraiche - Chef Kenneth, LaStrada




This delightful bite contrasted pristine fish against gently tart lemon and lime flavors and rich creaminess. 

Tomato-Gorgonzola Mac N Cheese - La Dolce Vita




I really liked the way the tomato toned the Gorgonzola down just enough so that it asserted itself without overpowering the dish. Though La Dolce Vita's Chef-Owner Terry Tarantino was in the house, I did not learn who actually prepared this dish (even though he presented it) and I apologize - it was most hearty.

House Smoked Salmon and Cucumber "Spool" with Tobiko Caviar - Ben Davison, MUSE at the Ritz Carlton


This dish presented me with a little bit of a challenge. Intended as a finger food to be enjoyed in one or two bites with a squirt of the cream, I picked it up and first enjoyed the caviar. I then separated the cucumber from the filling and met the challenge: the filling wasn't intended to be fingered on its own and I didn't have a fork. I really liked the filling and I'm sure the cucumber added both texture and flavor contrast, but that hunk was just too big for a cucumber-phobe like me to work around. This dish was my favorite for presentation/appearance. 

Well, insert embarrassment here. This is where my photo of the dish that WON the savory category should be. Except, in the tumult of service (dishes were flying onto the Judges' Table faster than we could taste them) - it would seem that I don't have a photo of Noodlecat's entry. Thankfully, Brand Manager Bridget Rehner, who presented the dish to us, has come to the rescue with a camera-phone shot of her own, which she is kind enough to share:

Image courtesy of Bridget Rehner and Noodlecat
Bridget presented the dish, as she explained, because Noodlecat Chef Brian Reilly broke his ankle over the weekend (heal quickly, Chef!); Sous Chef Dick Kanatzar did the actual cooking. House made Japanese Chicken Sausage (Yakitori) on a house made Steam Bun topped with house-made pickles and "maggie mayo" (that's how I wrote it down). The combination was irresistible, even without the cucumber pickles (my plate didn't have the pink pickle shown above, but I've had Noodlecat's other, non-cucumber pickles, including that one, so I understood exactly what so excited the other judges about the texture and flavor combination - they raved about the pickles!).

Braised Short Rib with Squash Gratin - Michael Smith, Marigold Catering




I loved the squash gratin, which paired exquisitely with the tender beef. 

Oyster Shooter with Ginger and Horseradish Gelees and Beer Foam - Andrew Gorski, Tremont Tap House




This unusual dish was refreshing, in a briny-sweet kind of way. 

Seared Lamb Lollipop over Herbed Risotto, Truffled Wild Mushroom Demi-glace and Microgreens - Marlin Mayorga, Corleone's Ristorante


Tender lamb was perfectly cooked. A delightful plate.

Sushi Trio - Jimmy Soria, Shinto Japanese Steakhouse & Sushi Bar




Honestly, when a Japanese dish leads with "tuna with cream cheese" as a sushi item, I start out a little skeptical. This dish nevertheless rated highest on my score sheet for "Taste" as well as "Creativity". The three rolls started with said Spicy Tuna w/Cream Cheese. Next, I enjoyed Snow Mountain Roll with shrimp tempura, crab, cucumber, avocado and scallions with tobiko and eel sauce, and topped with a spicy crab mix that I couldn't stop eating! Finally, the Hawaiian Roll with shrimp tempura, eel, avocado and cucumber, topped with spicy tuna. No off smells or tastes anywhere on this plate - and the eel was heavenly! Yes, I did remove the cucumber prior to ingesting.

Duck-Pumpkin Pasta with Crispy Sage - Brian Goodman, Greenhouse Tavern
The judging panel determined that this dish was a very close second to Noodlecat's winner. Duck was lovingly confited and then cooked in more duck fat, then tossed with rigatoni and a very original pumpkin-based sauce. The Piggie Plates were a nice presentation touch for this ducky dish. 

Duck Confit over Smoked Tomato Corn Spoonbread - Chef Danny, Blue Canyon Kitchen & Tavern
This dish also received high praise from all four judges. I particularly liked the spoon bread, which benefited from the smoked tomato flavor. 

Duck with Sweet Potato Two Ways (Flan and Fries) - Michael Lyons, Accessible Gourmet
This dish earned a lot of "Creative-Originality" points for the luscious Sweet Potato Flan, which was dressed just so with some of the amazing ducky jus. So glad to learn that Chef Lyons is setting up shop on the East Side now with his full service catering company!

Crab Cake, Roasted Corn Relish, Remoulade, Chipotle Honey - Jason Reed, Don's Lighthouse
Chef Reed told us that this dish may be found on Don's Lighthouse's regular dinner menu.

Salad of Red Curry Squash, Leeks, Crispy Speck, Micro Arugula, Truffle, Dill, Panko, Smoked Bleu Cheese Fondue - Brian Okin, Fountain Cafe & Lounge
This salad garnered high marks from the judging panel; the combination of ingredients and preparation reflected great thought and skill that may not be readily apparent at first glance. This dish was truly a delicious sum of all of the parts and I look forward to trying more of Chef Okin's creations at Fountain Cafe soon! 

Pork Belly with Peanut-Chili Glaze, Asian Slaw - Jeff Jarrett, AMP 150
Another dish at the top of the panel's picks - this deftly executed plate offered melt-in-your-mouth pork belly accented by the nutty glaze (my favorite part of the dish) and contrasted with the crunchy slaw. The event's Honorary Chef came very close to victory with this dish.

Pretzel Crusted Chicken - Rock Finley, Great Lakes Brewing Company
This dish has been a signature at Great Lakes in one form or another for over twenty years.

Lemon Fried Blue Point Oyster with Pickled Cucumber - Reagan Riek, Pier W

My apologies to the soft spoken young chef who presented this dish - I didn't get your name, and that's a shame considering that you spent so much time shucking these oysters for us! A very lovely dish.  

Salad of Winter Greens Topped With Crispy Pig Ear, Fried Quail Egg and Oinky-Rice Wine Dressing - Brian Doyle, SOW Food
Chef Brian knows how to make a pig's ear sing, that's for sure. This plate earned high praise from the judges for the fabulous textures and flavors. And we were grateful, by the time we consumed this 24th dish, that Chef Brian had opted for the small quail egg over a standard chicken egg.

And now, on to the sweet side. 

Cannoli with Chocolate and Almond - Richard Rhein, Mama Roberto's
Leave the diet, take the cannoli.  

"Love Potion Parfait" - Dark Chocolate Mousse, Rum, Strawberry, Cherry, Balsamic, Candied Hazelnuts, Salty Carmel, Caramel-Filled Chocolate Candy - Amanda Montague, Lilly Handmade Chocolates

This dish was the only one of the evening that won a perfect score of 21 from me. Though it wasn't a slam-dunk for the whole panel - Chef Montague's creation swooned us enough to earn first place on the sweet side. 

Pumpkin Cake Shot - Becky Rink, About the Cake
This little container packed large pumpkin-bourbon-mousse flavor, balanced out with orange and chocolate and topped with candied pecan. 

Cognac Mousse over Pastry with Salted Caramel and Apple, Chocolate Tart - Britt Culey, Coquette Patisserie
This entry was a bit lighter on the stomach than the other desserts, but married delicate flavors and textures very nicely. 

Congratulations to the winners! And thank you to all of the many chefs, purveyors and auction donors who contributed to the success of this year's event. If you would like to contribute to our local March of Dimes Chapter - please follow this link

While all four judges had great fun playing with this food - we remain mindful of the larger purpose. So, please consider supporting your local Chefs and charities by attending a food-centric benefit or two if you can - the monthly Dinner in the Dark series offers a unique opportunity to support charities while enjoying a 6 course wine dinner from some of Cleveland's finest chefs! The next DITD will be at March of Dimes Chefs Auction Winner Noodlecat, on Monday, December 12, 2011 beginning at 6:30pm