Fun Playing With Food in Chicago Part 5: Little Goat Diner

The Chicago jury rendered its verdict in the middle of a soggy/snowy Wednesday afternoon and it wasn't pretty. Still, life would go on, and we'd need to eat some dinner. A fancy, celebratory place wouldn't fit. And we had no reservations, anyway. I'd already considered Little Goat Diner as a place to try on this trip; a nasty, losing day seemed the perfect excuse to hop aboard the bus to drown my sorrows with more of Chef Stephanie Izard's innovative cuisine (and a couple of cocktails for me, and more of that fabulous Blenheim Ginger Ale for Bob).

Little Goat Diner is located across Randolph Street from Girl and The Goat, but it is a completely different dining experience - a diner yes, but with a touch of whimsy and lots of original spins on some of the classics, while still offering many of the classics for those who prefer them, well, classic. We arrived just before the wait line formed (Little Goat doesn't take reservations) and snagged an immediate table. As we perused the menu, the few remaining empty tables filled in, as well as a large communal table and a seating counter. Tables turned with enthusiastic alacrity, so the wait line didn't seem to ever get too long.

We both opted for burgers. That section of the menu allows the diner three choices of patty: Slagel Beef, which touts its sustainably raised product, locally raised Kilgus Goat (supplier of all of that Girlie Goat for Izard), or a Veggie version.

ALL AMERICAN BURGER (KILGUS GOAT PATTY): pickles . onion . american cheese . special sauce . lettuce & tomato . sesame seed bun

Bob went for the classic, with the goaty twist, and he was not disappointed. I don't know how he ate the whole thing.

Side of  Smoked Fries

In hindsight, I wished Bob had chosen a different potato option, since there were four other house-made potato items, and my burger came with the smoked fries piled on top. Oh well. These fries will make you happy and you really can't have too many (though we weren't able to finish them).

MAC N' CHEESE

Owing to my general unhappy mood, a side of pure comfort food was also in order. I normally prefer the more pudding-like mac n cheese style to this looser type, but today, this version hit the spot magnificently with toothy, creamy goodness, owing to the high quality cheeses in the sauce, expert preparation, and perfectly al dente pasta, with just a modest crunchy counterpoint in the topping. This side is recommended regardless of the state of your disposition, and don't hesitate to use a spoon!

HORSESHOE BURGER (KILGUS GOAT PATTY): smoked fries . chili . cheese sauce, house made toast slice

My entree managed to completely erase the frown from my face and my heart - how many burgers can do that? The Horseshoe Burger is up there with the offerings of Cleveland's own B Spot as a truly satisfying burger experience - the Kilgus Goat patty is gently grilled, placed over a slice of house made toast from Little Goat Bread, then smothered with smoked fries, house-simmered Goat Chili, and cheese sauce. The distrinctive flavor of the goat came through in a pleasant stereo from both the goat chili topping and the goat burger patty. I was only able to eat about half of this portion, and less than half of the mac n cheese before I was at "Uncle!" But I felt sooooo much better! We were a little surprised when our server informed us that they'd been open less than a month - I sort of knew that from my internet research, but the seamless quality delivery of food and service belied the venue's young age. You will eat in good hands at the Little Goat Diner.

Little Goat Bread is attached to the diner, and is where Chef Izard sources all of the breads for her restaurants. Little Goat also offers bread for retail sale (and some specialty beverages and food products) - but get there early! Though even at evening time when I snapped Bob's photo next to the window (about 7:15pm CST), Chef Izard's minions were hard at work, making the proverbial donuts. None for us, however; we'd be traveling back to Cleveland on Thursday, so it was back to the bus stop. But there would be two final meals in Chicago before we'd wing away - so more Fun Playing With Chicago Food is yet to come!

Fun Playing With Food in Chicago Part 4: Slurping Turtle

Our Chicago food odyssey sloshes to Tuesday. It rained mercilessly all day and into the night, which would be our first opportunity to seek out blog-worthy eats. After a long day at court, then office time working on materials for Wednesday, we returned to the Silversmith to change and consider dinner. My friend Linda had suggested on Tuesday that we look up the restaurant(s) of Takashi Yagihashi, and it turns out that in 2011, he opened a Japanese noodle house with the irresistible name Slurping Turtle less than a mile from our hotel!

A quick cab ride (it was too miserable outside for mass transit) brought us to the quirky space on West Hubbard Street. Though it was after 8pm, there was a modest waiting list. We were then seated at the long communal table that runs down the center of the main room. Even though we knew that the $14 bowl of ramen would be a complete meal all by itself, we couldn't resist beginning with a couple of small plates. We were weary from the long day, and the whimsy of the place really was just what we needed!

Duck Fat Fried Chicken

Finger licking good, and accompanied by a richly dressed slaw. 

Bincho Grill Foie Gras with Pickles

Since we'd only try one item cooked on the bincho grill, we went for the most decadent and were rewarded with a couple of heavenly bites. For more on what a bincho grill is and how Takashi uses it, click here.

Tan Tan Men Ramen: homemade ramen noodle, ramen stock, pork meatball, pork miso, bok choy, bean sprouts (spicy)

Bob's ramen bowl delivered bold flavors, toothy noodles, and a triple play of porky goodness. My bite of meatball melted in the mouth.

Shoyu Wonton Ramen: homemade thin ramen noodle, classic tokyo style soy broth, chicken wonton, grilled chicken, marinated egg

My ramen noodles were a little thinner, but joined by several toothy chicken-stuffed dumplings in the succulent broth. I don't know if the egg was supposed to be more runny/creamy, or was served this way deliberately, but that was the only potential flaw in everything we had. Another meal most worthy of our journey, and very wallet friendly. Our only regret was that we could not finish it, and even though we had a fridge, we had no way to re-heat it. 

After a soggy return to the hotel, we prepared for the conclusion of business on Wednesday. And more playing with Chicago food.

Fun Playing With Food in Chicago Part 3: Girl & The Goat

Our Monday dinner reservation at Girl & the Goat wasn't until 9:30pm, plenty of time to recover some appetite after our marvelous lunch at The Gage. We hopped a bus across town and arrived a little early, and so waited at the bar until our table was ready. There, we enjoyed two interesting beverages - mine a take on the classic Dark N Stormy, containing a local rum, house-made falernum, and Blenheim Ginger Ale, while Bob sipped a full bottle of the boldly flavored Blenheim Ginger Ale.

Girl & the Goat is one of Chicago's hottest reservations right now, and with good reason. Chef/owner Stephanie Izard and her team are cranking out small plates of creative food emphasizing local and sustainable ingredients, though I haven't found anything that explains the goat connection. Izard is doing for goat what The Purple Pig is doing for pork; there were some stylistic similarities between the two restaurants, though the food itself was rather different. The Girl & the Goat menu is divided into three categories: Vegetable, Fish, and Meat, however, while vegetable, fish, or meat are respectively the main stars of their categories, there are crossovers. Goat gets its own category, as do oysters and breads/spreads. There is also a separate dessert and cheese menu. Sadly, we hadn't emptied out enough to taste something from each menu, but we sampled a nice variety. The delicious food was matched, again, by outstanding service. 

Busta Rye, Smoked Salmon Cream, Pickled Relish

Breads are baked across the street from the restaurant, at Little Goat Bread. The bread, salmon spread, and relish (which thankfully included some veggies other than cucumber) were delicious, and well worth $4. The other bread varieties available that evening were beet and stecca (also known as baguette), and each was offered with a different spread, walnut vinaigrette and sweet garlic oil, respectively, also at $4.

Grilled Sepia, Smoked Tomato and Pipara Relish, Mighty Goat Sausage

Sepia is similar to squid. This version was tender to chew and the delicate smokiness it picked up from the grill was enhanced by the smoked tomato and piparra peppers, which are of Basque origin. The goat sausage finished off the dish without overpowering the more delicate elements.

pan fried shishito peppers   parmesan . sesame . miso

An interesting take on these zesty peppers successfully combined dairy with sesame and miso, which normally to my palate don't "go" together.

tempura loup de mer filet  . bacon  . sweet n' sour . tuna crema

Loup der mer is a type of seabass also known as branzino. This dish offered a strangely harmonious combination of bacon and tuna flavors under the fried fish, and again didn't allow the more assertive accompaniments to dim the star.

Confit Goat Belly, Bourbon Butter, Lobster & Crab, Fennel

Our favorite two bites of the evening - perfectly braised goat belly (who knew that there was such a thing, or that it could, in its own way, be as savory as pork?) enrobed with bourbony butter and plated with pristine chunks of lobster and crab meat. A pity that we reached capacity before licking up every drop.

It became apparent very quickly why Girl & The Goat is such a hot ticket in Chicago, and you don't even have to like goat to enjoy it! We, however, came away from dinner with a new appreciation for the versatility and flavor of goat - though a little lobster and bourbon don't hurt. Our fun playing with Chicago food would continue Tuesday night.

Fun Playing With Food in Chicago Part 2: The Gage

A funny thing happened on the way to the courthouse on Monday morning - the case stopped with a jerk and we fell off! Well, not exactly. But by 11am, Bob and I were excused from the proceedings for the day. We next considered lunch. Our food forward friend (and frequent Chicago visitor) Edsel had recommended The Gage, less than 3 blocks from The Silversmith. It turned out to be our favorite meal of the trip (or in a close tie with the Little Goat Diner) and it hadn't even been on our radar; but for the bad weather, we had many choices on the list ahead of it. Don't make that mistake if you visit this part of Chicago.

We were now a tad under-dressed for this beautifully restored, historic eatery, recently named as one of the top five Power Lunch spots in all Chicago. The restaurant has several dining rooms on 2 levels (with an elevator to make it all accessible), and we were made to feel warm and welcome. The Gage exemplified the marvelous service we experienced almost every place we dined in Chicago. When the more spacious deuce next to ours emptied before we'd placed our food order, our server was happy to relocate us and our beverages, on request. That move was shortly followed by a fabulous Michael Ruhlman moment, as one diner of the deuce that replaced us (two business ladies) ordered a Caesar Salad with Grilled Chicken - how could you, when House Poutine with Braised Elk Ragoût, Stewed Vegetables, Curd Cheese, and Chips is on the menu for a mere $8???

House Poutine Braised Elk Ragoût, Stewed Vegetables, Curd Cheese, Chips

Best dish of trip. Period. The elk melted in the mouth and was not at all gamey, and the remaining ingredients harmonized perfectly with crunch, creaminess, and umami. Four diners could share this portion as an appetizer, but Bob and I bravely cleaned the dish without further assistance.

Bread Service

House-baked multigrain bread is accompanied by locally sourced cultured butter, with a drizzle of pink salt. Yes, we used it to clean the Poutine dish, and no, we were not ashamed.

Locally Crafted Sausages (House Made Rabbit, Garlic, Thyme Sausage, Smoked Polish from Bobak's), Crisp Potato, Brie

Bob's lunch was divine. Simple, but beautiful ingredients, perfectly prepared and smartly served. The Gage certainly knows it's way around game, as the rabbit sausage turned out by it's kitchen had a distinctive, but not gamey flavor. Ironically, Bobak's website informs us that the smoked polish was invented on, and named for, Maxwell Street. Whether the old Maxwell Street Market was involved, I do not know.

Lunch Special Sandwich: Duck Confit with Brandy BBQ Sauce, Onion, Arugula, Sauerkraut on Ciabatta

I hit the motherload with my choice of the "special" sandwich - special indeed! Silky duck shreds bathed in the rich but surprisingly light and tangy sauce, balanced out with the acidic sauerkraut, accompanied by gently dressed, crispy greens (the server offered potatoes as an alternate to the salad, but the first course had settled that consideration). Bob pronounced the half sour pickle delicious also. When we asked the server to wrap our leftover bread and butter (for a better breakfast tomorrow than the one we'd bought today), he instead insisted on sending us out with a fresh loaf and container of butter together with our entree leftovers. Well played.

I'd snagged an elusive reservation for Stephanie Izard's The Girl and The Goat for Monday's dinner - would we have the room to enjoy it? More Fun Playing With Chicago Food to come . . . .

Fun Playing With Food in Chicago Part 1, The Purple Pig

We spent most of last week in Chicago, on business that didn't turn out so well. All I can say is that the trial was reasonably fair, and the jury did what it did. At least we got to partake of some lovely eats for our trouble. And we managed to keep the budget in line (appropriate in light of our empty pockets after the trial), at about or under $30 per person per meal, excluding alcohol.

Our friend Cynthia returned the favor from her recent trip to Cleveland by picking us up at Midway and driving us to our hotel. I can highly recommend the Silversmith if you need to be downtown in Chicago, especially in winter when discounted rates abound. In addition to clean, spacious accommodations, the room included a laptop-friendly sized safe deposit box.

We flew in to Chicago on Sunday evening, and made tracks to The Purple Pig, so highly regarded by friends and commentators alike. The food, served in small tasting portions designed for sharing, was fabulous; I consider it a compliment to the Chicago food scene that it didn't rank as our favorite meal through no fault of its own!

Pork Fried Almonds with Rosemary & Garlic

Pork Fried Almonds. 'Nuff said?

Purple Pig Cured Meats Platter

My Charcuterie Plate

We all enjoyed this platter - but agreed that we might have spent our stomach space more wisely. A little more variety on the platter (nuts, dried fruits, cheese) may have altered that opinion, but truthfully, in hindsight, we concluded that Purple Pig has much more innovative and interesting offerings than this.

Burrata Pugliese, Grilled Kohlrabi, Apples, Mustard Greens, Crispy Speck & Beer Agrodolce

Cynthia had never before tried burrata, and this was a magnificent way to be introduced to this exquisite type of mozzarella-on-steroids cheese. The combination of apple, bacon and burrata was simply amazing and we wished the portion had three more bites!

Pork Secreto with Roasted Red Pepper, Leeks & Pickled Watermelon Rind

I need for the butcher to locate this succulent cut of pork when our next Berkshire hog is processed! A melt in your mouth delicious cut of a beautiful beast, perfectly prepared, and accompanied with vegetation that really complimented the meat.

House made Veal Mortadella Sausage with Black Kale, Fresh Chickpeas & Preserved Cherry Tomatoes

The mortadella was another "melt in your mouth delicious" meat offering. We also appreciated the fresh, fresh (never dried or frozen) chickpeas, and the crunchy kale.

Our initial order ended here. Though we were no longer super hungry, we decided we had enough room for a trio of dishes from the "fried" section of the menu; this cost us any chance at ordering dessert. Works for me.

Pig's Ear with Crispy Kale, Pickled Cherry Peppers & Fried Egg

Oops - I didn't realize that the dish was shaped like a pig, and my best shots didn't feature its face. The contents were lovely, though I confess to loving the version at Lolita here in Cleveland just a bit more.

Petit Basque Cheese with Membrillo

Our favorite fried dish. I mean, what is not to love about fried cheese with a gently sweet sauce? On several levels, this was dessert.

Eggplant Parmesan Balls

These morsels actually succeeded in reducing classic eggplant parm into a bite sized portion. Two bites gave the entire experience normally requiring an entree. Bravo.

The trial would begin the next morning. Wired with anticipation, we returned to the Silversmith to engage the next steps, completely sated and happy.

Fun Playing With A Chicago Breakfast That Channeled the Catskills

I so apologize for the long delay between posts. Since my last post on May 19, we've been to NY and back, and to Cincinnati and back - cooking on both trips. Reports will follow eventually - but I didn't want to lose this report on a very cool Chicago spot that was our last taste of that city on our early May trip.

Donut Holes - the Amuse at Lou Mitchell's

Having been forced to dismiss the lawsuit against the city that tore up my labrum after the trial judge allowed the City to fundamentally change the case, literally moments before we were to select a jury, and knowing we'd be re-filing and starting again, I was determined to enjoy one last special taste of Chicago before we left to drive back to Cleveland. The only problem was that we'd had to meet with my attorney first thing Thursday morning, and we had to be checked out of our hotel room by noon to avoid extra charges. So - we sprinted across downtown to 565 W Jackson Blvd to sample a place recommended by a friend - Lou Mitchell's. 

Now, I suppose that there are a lot of locals who think this place is a tourist trap and nothing but. But let me tell you - one step into the dining room, one breath of the aromas, and one look at the tables, food and servers were enough for me! I felt transported to the world of "Catskilland" - a marketing term coined for New York's Catskill Mountain resorts in the late 1980s. My parents were married at the Nevele, and my childhood experience was indelibly inked by time spent "in the Catskills," at the Nevele and other resort hotels long gone. Since I married Bob nearly 15 years ago, I'd often hoped to take him to the Catskills to experience at least a taste of it; however, it is almost gone now (Kutshers Country Club  is the only "Borscht Belt" hotel still operating).

Fast forward back to Lou Mitchell's. It wasn't especially "Jewish" at all - but something about the look, the smell, the feel - I felt like I was back in The Mountains. It didn't hurt that our server was an older woman who understood completely when I asked for expedition, as we needed to walk a bunch of blocks back to our hotel before noon (and it was already after 11am). I wanted to take some atmosphere shots, but the stress and hurry made that impossible. The above freshly prepared donut holes are kept in a container by the entrance, and offered to patrons as they enter or wait for a table. Fortunately, we got to enjoy our nosh and get right to a table.

La Conga Delight (Bacon, Tomato and Cheese), Choice of Homemade Bread, Melted American Cheese, Crisp Bacon and Tomato, Fries

My selection - brought freshly cooked, hot, crispy and delicious. The house-made fries are simply lovely - creamy and crispy. And, the leftovers made a delightful road snack, holding much of their crunch though cold.

House-Made Coleslaw




Though I skipped the pickle, I adored this cole slaw.


La Conga Close Up



BLT Club, Crisp Bacon, Lettuce and Tomato on Homemade Golden Brown Greek Toast, Fries



Bob loved his choice (and my bite was fantastic) - crunchy, cheesy, creamy - and most importantly - made fresh with fresh ingredients.

Since the case has been started over again, I anticipate additional Chicago trips to resolve it. We have promised to return to Lou Mitchell's without a time clock ticking over our heads, to give it the respect and enjoyment that it deserves. Despite the rush - we had great fun sampling not only the tasty food and fabulous service - but the nostalgic atmosphere of Lou Mitchell's.

Fun Playing With Stuffed Deep Dish Pizza in Chicago

My law practice recently brought me to Chicago for a few days mid-week. The emphasis on this trip was business, not food, so we didn't play as much as usual. However, we still managed to try some Chicago specialties that are worth writing about.

Our first dinner - Giordano's Stuffed Pizza.I've had New York variations on this style before - where a second crust covers the top of the pizza and is baked over it. Chicago's version is different- combining the second crust with deep dish to make something unique.

House Salad

This portion was more than ample for two of us. I loved that the carrots were not out of a food service bag.


House Dressing

Taste  and consistency said "homemade"! Very good.


Small Cheese Stuffed Crust Pizza

When this first came to the table, I was a little confused - I expected a second crust on top. Further exploration explained the mystery.

Where's the top crust?

Aha! The top crust is actually under the cheese and sauce. Hmmm. Seemed a little unnecessary like that - adding extra chew and extra carb without adding much flavor to the party. Still, I cannot deny that, overall, this was a tasty pizza, which was still very palatable eaten cold the next morning after sitting out all night (our hotel room didn't have a refrigerator). My verdict is that I would neither seek out nor reject this kind of pizza.We would probably not return to the Jackson Boulevard location of Giordano's again, however, because the service was truly poor and there was not a manager to be seen. Despite the poor service, we had fun sampling Giordano's Stuffed Crust Pizza.