Showing posts with label sausage. Show all posts
Showing posts with label sausage. Show all posts

Sunday, August 26, 2018

Fun Playing With Ice Ice Daisy!

Daisy's Ice Cream was a 40 year legend on Fleet Avenue in Cleveland's Slavic Village. After being shuttered since 2015 when Ray and Daisy Pudelski decided to retire, it has now been acquired and rejuvenated by Cleveland Chef and BBQ Maven Walter Hyde. The simple walk up restaurant features it's namesake ice cream, but with Chef Walter's unique spins. In addition, Daisy's offers a few savories to allow for a full meal experience if you desire. A row of picnic tables allow for al fresco on premise dining. 

We've visited Daisy's twice since it reopened. First was early July 2018. Walter says the presentations have been tweaked since then, but the goodies are substantively the same.

Pierogi Split: Apple and Blueberry Cheesecake Pierogi, Ice Cream, Toppings
Don't be discouraged by how melted-looking this is. Walter has re-invented the presentation and serving vessel to keep the cold things colder longer. It was so delicious notwithstanding the melt - creamy, hot and pierogi-ish while cool, sweet and refreshing, with two types of dessert pierogi for us to share. Caramel and chocolate sauces, whipped cream and ice cream bathed the locally made sweet pierogi with deliciousness. This was plenty for the two of us! But Walter wasn't finished with us yet. 

Pierogi Taco
A "Pierogi Bun" is stuffed with Polish Sausage, Sauteed Cabbage, and Bacon and topped with  Horseradish Sauce.  Probably the most unique "taco" in Cleveland, this item tastes as good as it looks!

We visited again after first enjoying the neighboring Saucisson's Porco Pop Up Brunch. Walter insisted on treating us to his latest creation:

Watermelon Sundae
Built upon a hunk of real watermelon with the center carved out, this Watermelon Sundae had it all: Ice Cream, Caramel, Chocolate Bits, Captain Crunch, A Touch of Nut, Whipped Cream and Cherries on Top! Again, one plate fed two.

Walter has promised to keep up the creativity (we expect no less from him) as the seasons change and ingredients and tastes morph with the climate. He may even stay open for the winter, though he's still working on the logistics for that.

I can't recommend a more tasty Saturday afternoon than a bite and shopping at Saucisson and then dessert (perhaps preceded by one of Walter's special savories) just down the street. Those savories include nachos, burgers, hotdogs, sausage, pulled pork and shredded chicken, and chili, in addition to a selection of pierogies. Ice cream is available as soft serve or scooped, with a full variety of toppings and mix-ins ("Razzles"), sundaes, floats, malts, shakes and slushies, and dessert pierogies. 

Lots of fun playing with food at Daisy's! 

5614 Fleet Avenue
Cleveland, Ohio
(216) 727-1935
Open 7 Days 11am-8pm

Tuesday, August 19, 2014

More Fun Playing With Food at Grove Hill

It is unusual for me to post a second piece on a restaurant so soon after the first, but we had so much fun playing at Grove Hill in Chagrin Falls the other night that I have to share! Tim Bando's raw gem of a restaurant, which was less than two weeks old at our first visit, continues to refine itself into a jewel, and our experience reflected that. Their website is now fully functional, and walking into the restaurant, with a reservation this time, I noticed that the roses had disappeared from the front window bar seating area. Whereas the first time a few items were unevenly seasoned, all of the flavors Thursday night were spot on. And the best part is that Chef Bando spent a lot of years on Long Island's East End, and he knows fish and seafood, as demonstrated by some of our selections on both visits. 

Butter, Roasted Garlic, House Made Bean Dip
On our first visit, the roasted garlic was a little under-cooked; this version was soft and spreadable. The seasoning on the bean dip was completely balanced, and the butter creamy.


Our friend dove into the raw bar and had oysters for his appetizer. I didn't photograph them because I didn't eat them, but he assured me that they were superb; here's a link to his photo of his oysters. Our friend was impressed with the selection available, the product he ate, and the sauces that accompanied them. 

SMOKED SAUSAGE, pickled vegetables, grain mustard, crusty bread
Bob's appetizer was big enough to be an entree! Two large, crispy on the outside pieces of smoked sausage were accompanied by crunchy vegetables that lent acidic lightness to the rich meat. Chef Bando stopped by to chat with us, and said that this kielbasa-like sausage is made for him by Blue Ribbon Meats, a quality Cleveland purveyor that also makes the Bratwurst served at Michael Symon's B Spot restaurants. 

VEAL SWEETBREADS MILANESE, marinated heirloom tomatoes
The best sweatbreads ever! The meat melted in the mouth, the breading adding a nice crunch. Again, a light acidic accompaniment, the tomato salad, helped to cut and compliment the creamy richness of the sweatbreads and the aïoli topped it off perfectly. 

GROVE HILL BURGER, lettuce, tomato, half-sour pickle, cheese, fries
Bob chose the burger. It was cooked to medium as he specified, and the cheddar was nicely melted. This was a perfectly serviceable burger and well suited to the fussy eater in your party, if you  have one (you know, the one who said "eww" when you explained what sweatbreads are). 

SPAGHETTI BOLOGNESE AMERICANO, parmesan, basil
Our friend made this dish his entree. My bite was a delicious combination of meat, tomato and pasta. Not sure why it's called "Americano," but that will give me an excuse to order it on a future visit. 

LINGUINI, jumbo lump crab, garlic, calabrian chile, lemon oil, parsley
I hit the jackpot with this choice. The lump crab tasted of sweet freshness from the sea, with no off flavors or smells as is often the case with Cleveland seafood. The chile was applied with care so it did not overwhelm the delicate crabmeat, and the prominence of lemon oil again showed off Chef Bando's skill with mating acid to rich ingredients to get the best of both. 

Even with leftovers to box up, we were all too full for dessert, which is a shame because they sounded delicious! Grove Hill has an in-house pastry chef making them, so next time, we will save room.

Chef Bando said the menu would be changing very soon (he says he has a short attention span), and even better, that Grove Hill would begin serving brunch on Saturday and Sunday August 23; they have a local farm set up to supply quality eggs for that. We look forward to playing with brunch at Grove Hill after the Farmers' Markets for the rest of summer and into fall!

Grove Hill is quickly becoming a favorite. Pristine ingredients and clever preparations combined with great service equals fun playing with food at Grove Hill.

Monday, April 21, 2014

Fun Playing Next Door with Dante's Pizza & Pasta

Dante Boccuzzi serves up some of the best food in Cleveland. His latest venture, attached to two of his other four restaurants in Tremont, Ohio (Restaurant Dante and Ginko), is Dante Next Door. Serving only brunch and lunch six days a week, Next Door also offers Restaurant Dante an additional room during dinner service. The brunch menu, served Saturday-Monday, is a bit different from the lunch menu served Wednesday-Friday, which means I need to visit again soon during the latter part of the week!

After an early trip to the North Union Farmers' Market at Shaker Square on Saturday morning, we could not resist the opportunity to check out the offerings at Next Door, which had been open less than a week, but delivered solid goods. Passover would end early in a big, big way, but hey, they say go big or go home!

Next Door puts a lot of effort into its drink menu, with numerous coffee, tea and fresh squeezed juice options. As I recall, the iced tea section offers no fewer than 6 fruited selections, in addition to plain tea. Our server explained that each of the fruited teas is supplemented with a freshly made fruit puree rather than the usual commercial syrup. She recommended the mango, which was a tad too sweet at full strength to accompany the savory food, but was otherwise delicious:


She topped this off with plain tea after I drank about half, and it was then perfect to accompany the food. Bob approved of the house coffee.

Assuming that there was pork in the meatballs on "Frankie’s spaghetti and meatball pizza" (and if there wasn't, we covered that in the other two items ordered), this dish managed to break all of the holiday rules all by itself. The "spaghetti pizza" has been around the East Coast for a while, and has never really impressed me, but this pie did justice to the concept, in addition to being a first-rate pizza. First, the crust had the perfect combination of crunch and chew, and though only a ten inch pie, each of the 8 slices was easily fold-able. Next, the toppings were all made in house, including the spaghetti, and that made all the difference. The meatballs burst with flavor and juiciness, and the sauce and cheese balanced nicely. We added runny local farm eggs to the pie to make it a more brunchy experience, and it was the perfect touch (add $3 to the $12 pizza price for eggs). 





Our second dish, which also satisfied, was the Pasta Carbonara Fritatta with spaghetti, pancetta, eggs, and Parmesan cheese.



It was such a toss up - luxurious cream sauce or fresh tomato sauce? Pancetta or meatball? Runny egg or fluffy omelet? We loved them both and were glad we could share, though both plates wanted a hit of fresh black pepper that they didn't get; this kind of food begs for either a pepper mill on each table or an offer from the server when it comes to the table. But delicious nonetheless.

Finally, we tried the Pork Sausage Patties, which I assume are also made in house, though the menu doesn't say and we didn't ask. Though I liked the more assertive flavors in Jack Flap's sausage patties a little better, these were also a palate pleaser, made from very good quality pork and cooked to just the right texture. The sausage made a perfect plate-cleaner for some of the runny eggs and creamy sauce, though the portions were so ample that we had plenty of both to take home (together with sausage).






















The lunch menu offers a few more salads and some different entrees. Both menus also contain house made pastries and desserts, and any pizza can be made gluten free. Plans for Next Door's future include a new music club downstairs, to be called Coda, that will offer pizza from the magnificent pizza ovens into the night. For now, though, if you want to play with the best new pizza in C Town, or perhaps Foie Gras over a Belgian Waffle or Mortadella Meatballs, you'll have to come Next Door to lunch or brunch. 

Saturday, February 15, 2014

Fun Playing with Jack Flaps

Eric Williams is one of my favorite Cleveland Chef/Restaurateurs. Proprietor of Momocho in Ohio, Eric keeps reinventing himself in different directions, with delicious results, and always Cleveland-centric. After Momocho came The Happy Dog, which went into in a classic bar space on Detroit Avenue in the Gordon Square District before the location was hip (and we join Cleveland in mourning the recent, untimely passing of co-owner Sean Kilbane), then El Carnicero in Lakewood, and plans to revive the historic Euclid Tavern with the Happy Dog brand (which I haven't heard any updates on since Mr. Kilbane's passing). 

The latest Williams venture to take flight is Jack Flaps, a small breakfast-through-the-lunch-hour spot located near the Momocho home base in Ohio City. We visited this morning after a pilgrimage to the West Side Market, and had great fun playing with our food. Jack Flaps is a keeper; I just wish it was open more hours and had dedicated parking. I'd eat breakfast for dinner, if I could eat it here! When we arrived shortly before noon today, the restaurant was mostly full and there was one 4 top ahead of us. We watched that queue wax and wane for over an hour once we were seated; no question that they were slammed today, which is why they get a Fun Playing With Food pass for a couple of small flaws; overall, the meal was excellent. 

Ironically, the Jack Flaps (or flapjacks) weren't the best part of our meal. Not because there was anything wrong with them, but because Eric and his partner Randy Carter really know their way around pork. We'll get to that in a moment. First, the Jack Flaps:

Original Buttermilk Jackflaps
Bob decided to be a purist today. Fluffy pancakes, cinnamon-y butter, maple syrup. The combination was tasty, but the butter and syrup would have melted better if the dishes had been warmer. Small flaw #1, our food was a little cold - not so cold that we had to send it back, but we wished someone had asked, because it really was a little too cold for everything, to well, melt together, and the pork would have sung even higher notes with just a few more degrees of temperature. As noted, though, they were in weed city, so we decided to just enjoy the food as it came (and the butter did eventually melt into the pancakes). 

Cracker-Jack Flaps
These pancakes were served with a Salted Caramel Sauce, and had Corn Nuts cooked into the batter. Cinnamon House Butter and Syrup were along side. Small flaw #2, the "prize" promised by the menu (to complete the "Cracker Jack" experience) never materialized. Again, the out-the-door line at the entrance made it impossible for me to want to question or complain. And I really didn't get that big "salted caramel" hit of flavor I was expecting. But it still tasted delicious, and not too sweet, which would have been an easy line to cross. The cooked corn nuts gave it a uniquely crunchy-chewy texture that did not threaten my dental work, but popped with corny flavor in the wheat-based dough (note that all of the Jack Flaps and Waffles can be made with gluten-free buckwheat batter at the diner's request). As for the pancakes themselves, how many times have you ordered pancakes in a restaurant and been served an obvious commercial mix that fell flat on your palate? That will not be your experience at Jack Flaps, where everything tastes of love and care in the preparation.

Vietnamese-Style Sausage Patties
These little flavor bombs explode in your mouth a bit better with a little dab of the house hot sauce, but even plain, they are fabulously porky and well seasoned. Nary a morsel remained.

Mexican Coke-Braised Slab Bacon
Probably the best bites of the day (and so plentiful that we had two full slices to take home) - this is not your mama's Oscar Meyer! Beautiful pork belly, prepared low and slow, melted in our mouths. A touch of the maple syrup (and even a touch of the hot sauce, not usually something I'd put on bacon) transported us to porky nirvana in one bite. At $3 for four huge slices, this may be the most economical ticket to that nirvana in C-Town.

The staff is still working out some of the "slammed" kinks, so be patient if you go at a busy time, and you will be rewarded. We shared our table (a six top) with three young ladies who enjoyed Jackflaps, as well as a waffle dish (looked like the "Fat Elvis" and looked delicious), the vegan Root Vegetable Hash, and Grits with Cinnamon House Butter. I also spied an amazing tower of French-Toasted goodness (I think it was the PB&J) at the next table that made me want to return ASAP to try it.

We loved our breakfast at Jack Flaps and look forward to returning there for more sweet and savory fun playing with breakfast in Ohio City. 






Sunday, April 14, 2013

Fun Playing With West Side Market Goodness

I'm not much of a book reviewer, but I am in love with Cleveland’s West Side Market, 100 Years & Still Cooking: The Fascinating Life and Times of an American Public Market by Laura Taxel and Marilou Suszko. The book is physically gorgeous, but the content concerning the life and times of the Market is the true must-have for anyone who has ever enjoyed an expedition to the WSM.


It took a little while to read, because there is a lot in there! Bob read it next, and enjoyed it as much as I. I recommend this book on so many levels; it is loaded with skillfully presented history, stories and gossip, and photographs old and new. But it is more than that. The authors really succeed in bringing the WSM alive on the page. I feel like I now  have a whole new relationship with the WSM, even though I've been a fan since moving to Cleveland in the mid-1990s. 

When Bob and I first dated long distance, he introduced me to the WSM; Ohio City was a regular stop for us after the airport. We later married and lived in Maple Heights, then moved further out into the suburbs. As the years went by, and we started buying much of our meat from local farmers, the WSM dropped off of our radar completely. 

By April 2010, when I won a Facebook contest sponsored by Ohio City Pasta, it had been about two years since we'd ventured to the WSM. The catch to winning this contest was that I had to collect my prize (free pasta and sauce) once a month every month for a year - at the WSM. I wrote a series of blog posts chronicling that adventure, and how the monthly journeys to Ohio City re-awakened our passion for the place.  

We returned to the WSM for the first time after reading the West Side Market book on the Friday before Easter (March 29), and it was packed under the glistening, recently scrubbed ceiling tiles! We browsed the vendors with an entirely new perspective on who they were, where they came from, and what they offered, thanks to Laura and Marilou's book. It was still pretty cold outside when we sat to eat, so I didn't snap any photos of either of our Maha's falafels, but they were hot, crispy, succulent and delicious.

WSM Haul, 3/29/13


From left to right: Basketeria Green beans (in the paper bag), parsley, red bell peppers, grape tomatoes (not pictured - organic Spanish onions), Slovenian Sausage from Edward Badstuber & Son. Behind it, sashimi grade tuna from Kate's Fish (tilefish filets not pictured). Behind that, Hominy Grits from Narrin's Asian Spice. Next to the Grits, Nicoise Olives marinated in Olive Oil and Thyme from Rita's. The thick sausage to the right is Beef Kielbasa, accompanied by smokies, from J & J Czuchraj Meats. Finally, Urban Herbs's coriander sits under a bag of their black barley.

Sashimi Grade Tuna from Kate's Fish
Photo Courtesy Edsel Little  
This was the first time I ever worked with raw fish, as 99% of the fish sold at retail in Cleveland shouldn't be eaten raw. Kate is the only fishmonger I trust, and my trust was well placed here. Buttah.

Mediterranean Deviled Eggs
Photo Courtesy Edsel Little
We made this for a Supper Club on a Spanish theme. Brunty Farms eggs (from Solon Mustard Seed), olives from Rita's, red peppers, onions and grape tomatoes from Basketeria, and that exquisite tuna!

WSM Dinner!
Beef Kielbasa from  J & J Czuchraj Meats carmelized in a cast iron pan, Basketeria's green beans and peppers sauteed in the drippings - delicious!

Slovenian Sausage


The next day, some of the Badstuber Slovenians got the same treatment!


These potatoes were also fried in the sausage grease.



Homemade garden horseradish really enhanced the tender sausage.

 J & J Czuchraj Smokies!


I still have some Nyafat (Rokeach discontinued it years ago); it it used only for making Matzoh Brei. This version wasn't very kosher, with the bits of chopped smokies in it. But it was delicious!



I discovered that black barley isn't as ubiquitous as I'd expected, but we've enjoyed one meal using it in a pilaf-style dish with veggies (and duck fat - oh, yes). If you have any great recipes for it, please post in the comments!

Urban Herbs's Black Barley made Pilaf Style with Wild Rice, Med Grain Rice & Duck Fat









This morning, we dug into the hominy grits from Narrin's Spice.


This is a dish we've grown to love, from The Chew's Carla Hall:

Eggs in Heaven



The grits are prepared with Snowville Creamery Milk, Hartzler Butter and Beecher's Flagship Cheese, then placed in the cast iron skillet. Local eggs are then cracked in, the skillet goes in the oven. A sprinkling of Basketeria parsley completes a fun playing with food breakfast!



What a great haul of food and WSM goodness! Served up with a side of history, storytelling, photography and more.

Cleveland’s West Side Market, 100 Years & Still Cooking: The Fascinating Life and Times of an American Public Market by Laura Taxel and Marilou Suszko starts as a beautiful "coffee table" book. But beneath that pretty face is delicious content that will enhance your relationship with the WSM if you have one, and will otherwise start that relationship if you don't. If you order the book from The WSM Shop, you'll get free shipping of the book and a portion of the purchase price is donated to the Market Centennial Fund. However you acquire it, though, Cleveland’s West Side Market, 100 Years & Still Cooking is a must have for any Clevelander who cares about their food!

Note - my review copy of the book was complimentary, but my opinions remain my own.

Saturday, February 9, 2013

Fun Playing With Food in Chicago Part 2: The Gage

A funny thing happened on the way to the courthouse on Monday morning - the case stopped with a jerk and we fell off! Well, not exactly. But by 11am, Bob and I were excused from the proceedings for the day. We next considered lunch. Our food forward friend (and frequent Chicago visitor) Edsel had recommended The Gage, less than 3 blocks from The Silversmith. It turned out to be our favorite meal of the trip (or in a close tie with the Little Goat Diner) and it hadn't even been on our radar; but for the bad weather, we had many choices on the list ahead of it. Don't make that mistake if you visit this part of Chicago.

We were now a tad under-dressed for this beautifully restored, historic eatery, recently named as one of the top five Power Lunch spots in all Chicago. The restaurant has several dining rooms on 2 levels (with an elevator to make it all accessible), and we were made to feel warm and welcome. The Gage exemplified the marvelous service we experienced almost every place we dined in Chicago. When the more spacious deuce next to ours emptied before we'd placed our food order, our server was happy to relocate us and our beverages, on request. That move was shortly followed by a fabulous Michael Ruhlman moment, as one diner of the deuce that replaced us (two business ladies) ordered a Caesar Salad with Grilled Chicken - how could you, when House Poutine with Braised Elk Ragoût, Stewed Vegetables, Curd Cheese, and Chips is on the menu for a mere $8???


House Poutine Braised Elk Ragoût, Stewed Vegetables, Curd Cheese, Chips
Best dish of trip. Period. The elk melted in the mouth and was not at all gamey, and the remaining ingredients harmonized perfectly with crunch, creaminess, and umami. Four diners could share this portion as an appetizer, but Bob and I bravely cleaned the dish without further assistance.

Bread Service
House-baked multigrain bread is accompanied by locally sourced cultured butter, with a drizzle of pink salt. Yes, we used it to clean the Poutine dish, and no, we were not ashamed.

Locally Crafted Sausages (House Made Rabbit, Garlic, Thyme Sausage, Smoked Polish from Bobak's), Crisp Potato, Brie
Bob's lunch was divine. Simple, but beautiful ingredients, perfectly prepared and smartly served. The Gage certainly knows it's way around game, as the rabbit sausage turned out by it's kitchen had a distinctive, but not gamey flavor. Ironically, Bobak's website informs us that the smoked polish was invented on, and named for, Maxwell Street. Whether the old Maxwell Street Market was involved, I do not know.

Lunch Special Sandwich: Duck Confit with Brandy BBQ Sauce, Onion, Arugula, Sauerkraut on Ciabatta


I hit the motherload with my choice of the "special" sandwich - special indeed! Silky duck shreds bathed in the rich but surprisingly light and tangy sauce, balanced out with the acidic sauerkraut, accompanied by gently dressed, crispy greens (the server offered potatoes as an alternate to the salad, but the first course had settled that consideration). Bob pronounced the half sour pickle delicious also. When we asked the server to wrap our leftover bread and butter (for a better breakfast tomorrow than the one we'd bought today), he instead insisted on sending us out with a fresh loaf and container of butter together with our entree leftovers. Well played.

I'd snagged an elusive reservation for Stephanie Izard's The Girl and The Goat for Monday's dinner - would we have the room to enjoy it? More Fun Playing With Chicago Food to come . . . .

The Gage on Urbanspoon

Sunday, February 26, 2012

2012 Fun Playing With Fish in Destin FL, P.1: RIP Mr. Ferrell Shipp

Our winter trip to Destin, Florida enables us to consume a disproportionate amount of fish and seafood. We are just returned from the tenth edition of this trip, and we were fortunate to have fun playing with several species of water creatures at a variety of venues. This report will be broken into several blog posts, and won’t be entirely chronological this year, but stick with it and you won't regret it!

Tasty Crab Cake Sliders from Obrycki’s at the BWI Airport
Kindly note the usual disclaimer – though we return annually, we generally eat at each establishment only once per year. Great restaurants can have bad days, and mediocre spots can have stellar days; this blog simply seeks to share our experiences as we perceive them, and to bring some positive attention to those that we enjoyed the most. 

We arrived in Destin a little later than we’d planned on Wednesday February 8, due to a GPS [operator] error when leaving Panama City Beach's airport. The original plan had been to hit a restaurant on Route 30A on the Alys Beach/Rosemary Beach side of the world on our way west to Destin, but Bob wanted to check in at the condo first. So here it was after 8pm, and we needed dinner. With my inner ear still clogged from flying, and with me still adjusting to maneuvering and parking the massive Lincoln Town Car we'd rented (don't ask), I committed the most quintessential sin a traveling food lover can make in this smart-phone enabled age – picking a dining destination on sight alone. 

As we’d headed west on Route 98, around the Cross Bay Bridge, we passed a place that for years had been a ubiquitous chain dinner house; the sign atop the restaurant at 34906 Emerald Coast Parkway now read “Miller’s Destin Ale House.” “How could an independent restaurant survive the rents in this strip,” my brain wondered, but I couldn’t resist the opportunity to make a new locally-owned find so close to our lodgings. My first instinct proved unfortunately correct. It became quickly apparent once we stepped inside that despite “Destin” in the neon name, this was indeed part of a chain, called "Miller's Ale House" and which apparently inserts the city name into most units, whichever city it might be. Founded in Jupiter, Florida in 1988, the brand is primarily located throughout Florida, but also has outlets in seven other states. I asked the fellow who seated us whether any of the fish was from that part of the world, and he said yes and described the local supplier they source from, so we decided to stay. 

Indeed, some of the fish served here is locally procured, though they were out of Grouper this evening. We accepted the remaining choice of Mahi, and each ordered the grilled fish plate.

Grilled Catch of the Day (Mahi) with french fries and cole slaw, plus choice of sauce (I got roasted red pepper, Bob tried Red Thai Curry) on the vegetables. Wait - where's the cole slaw?  

Oh, there it is - we had to ask for it.


Had the fish not been cooked to within an inch of its life, it would actually have been quite good. At $13.49 for the above platter, no harm or foul occurred (except to the fish, which was dry from being overcooked), though the roasted fresh vegetables served in a canned-tasting sauce were inedible. Fries and slaw, as at most places we visited, were food service pack but enjoyable. We returned to Sundestin and prepared to meet the morning.

Morning turned to mourning almost immediately. Our “go to” breakfast for ten years has been the Silver Sands Breakfast at Harbor Docks. Something looked wrong before we even got into the parking lot – no sign of the sign (pictured below, from an earlier visit), and no cars. The Silver Sands’s proprietor, Mr. Ferrell Shipp, was in his 80s when this article was written about him in 2010. He always made the Silver Sands’s biscuits, which were like no others we’ve ever tasted, even as he seemed older and more arthritic every year. The locked front door at Harbor Docks all but confirmed my suspicions. A quick Google search told me what my heart now already knew – Mr. Shipp had passed away July 5, 2011 at the age of 86, and his family decided to shut the breakfast business down in October 2011. We will miss you and your wonderful biscuits – Mr. Shipp, you cannot be replaced.











Mr. Shipp makes his Exit.
This discovery left us sad, but also wondering where we’d eat breakfast at this early hour. We meant to head to The Donut Hole, but in another feat of operator error, turned left instead of right onto 98, out of Harbor Docks. After driving west across Okaloosa Island and into Fort Walton Beach, and finding nothing that looked appealing for breakfast, we turned around and headed back towards The Donut Hole. Then, just across the Destin Bridge, a sign caught my eye: The Florida House of Destin. 

Located where Another Broken Egg had been for years, at 104 Harbor Boulevard, the independent-looking restaurant promised breakfast, lunch and dinner (the menu refers to a website at www.thedestinfloridahouse.com, but it doesn't appear to be working). This menu item caught my eye: “Crabcake Benny – two poached eggs served on top of two pan seared crabcakes and topped with a creamy hollandaise sauce and served with homefries or grits.” I asked our server about the fish and seafood on the menu, and he said it was all fresh and local. 

While we waited for our breakfast to be served, we chatted briefly with the owner, Charlie. A native of Connecticut, Charlie had owned a restaurant in Vermont for 13 years, then lost everything to a hurricane that flooded his property (you don’t buy flood insurance in the mountains of Vermont). He and his Alabama-born wife re-located to Destin about three years ago, and the Florida House was in its second full year of operation. Everything, he said, was made from scratch, and the menu emphasizes comfort foods like burgers, sandwiches, pot roast, meatloaf, roast turkey and steak. He and his wife also own the pizzeria located in the former Miss Chen’s across 98 (Crust), and he promised that the thin crust pizza there would satisfy this New York ex-pat.

Breakfast is served:

Bob's pancakes, served with sausage









Bob’s pancakes were nicely done, though to my palate, there was a “mix” flavor and texture to them. The sausage tasted typical. But what about the crab cakes? They were pretty darn tasty, though I honestly couldn’t tell you if they were freshly made from local product or not (and our later lunch experience would suggest not). The hollandaise, probably from a food service pack, was flavorful and the eggs perfectly poached (sorry, no yolky porn shots). The only problem was that the grits on my plate were ice cold. Charlie’s wife (who’s name I didn’t note; I apologize), was in the vicinity, and got me a fresh, extremely hot bowlful (which, like the cold ones on my plate, also lacked salt). The flavors and textures of crab cake, runny egg, hollandaise, melty cheese and grits, now combined together in the bowl, made for a completely satisfying breakfast, far better than a similar breakfast had been at The Donut Hole a few years back at about the same price point. 

The Florida House is offering 2-for-the-price-of-1 dinner specials throughout dinner service for the remainder of the winter, though we did not partake, and they also boast a full bar. We did return for lunch during our second week, and I’m very sorry to say that we just weren't impressed with the “Fish and Chips” plate, which we'd been told used the same "Golden Fried Grouper" as the Fish Sandwich. During our first visit, and again on our second, I asked each server about the fish – both insisted it was fresh, local Grouper. Judge for yourself:

Mine




Mine - featuring the noteworthy potato salad




Bob's


The potato salad was deliciously fresh and obviously made in house – if only the other items on the plate were also house-made! You can see from the size and shape of the fish that it isn’t a Grouper filet (I’d guess tilapia); I didn’t photograph it after I cut into it, but to my eye and tongue, it was a previously frozen product (and previously breaded, as well). At that point in the trip, having already wrassled with a couple of places over quality issues, we just let it be. The potato salad did dazzle.

Our overall experience at Florida House was very pleasant, as was the crab cake in my breakfast – but I can’t recommend the fish, period. As with La Famiglia Ristorante a few doors down, land and vegetable based comfort food seems to be delivered well for a fair price, but avoid the fish and seafood if that is what you crave. The pizza at Crust will be addressed in a later post, but it is worth your trouble if you enjoy New York-style pizza (and the meatballs and tomato sauce on it were fabulous).

So - did we find any worthy fish dishes in Florida? Of course we did - and it didn't take very long. Cue Harbor Docks, which now serves lunch until 4pm daily! After a few uneven years, Harbor Docks seems to have stabilized itself, though the "restaurant group" now extends to seven restaurants in multiple states. The dinner price points remain a little high for what is offered, but we've enjoyed several recent lunches there. After taking our seats, we were delighted to learn that Harbor Docks's owner Charles Morgan had decided to bring breakfast service back at Harbor Docks, and that some of the Silver Sands Breakfast's staff would also return. Service would commence on Valentine's Day.

Armed with this happy information, we asked about the lunch menu; particularly, the mullet. I'd never had mullet, but was game to try it. Our server started to describe it, then said - "wait a moment, I'll be right back." The next thing we knew, this appeared for our consideration:

Two strips of fried mullet in "regular" batter, with tarter sauce
Hot and crispy, and exploding with intense, yet fresh fish flavor - these bites immediately convinced us to try the Panko Crusted Mullet lunch special. While we waited, the internet informed me that mullet is primarily used as fish bait, but is on the Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch list as a "best choice" for human eaters also.

Pretty succulent fish bait! Mullet tastes a bit more of the ocean than the "milder" white fishes, and it's size does not lend it to grilling, but neither of these considerations mattered. The freshness shined through every flaky bite. The cole slaw and hush puppies as usual were of the food service variety, but serviceable, as were the grits.

Our next visit to Harbor Docks would be for breakfast on Friday, February 17. It definitely felt strange. Morgan was smart to change some things up, while trying to keep other things the same.

New Harbor Docks Breakfast Menu


Harbor Docks kept the Fisherman's Platter (a Shipp invention, and now named for him), biscuits, sausage gravy and grits. Fried chicken, which used to be a take-out item only, is now on the eat-in menu, together with waffles, which are new. Gone is the ham steak, which Bob enjoyed though it was an acquired, salty taste, and the plain gravy I was so fond of. Alcoholic beverages are now available. And some new omelet combinations and breakfast sandwiches have been added, together with sauteed apples and fresh fruit.




Breakfast began with this complimentary basket of food service muffins and butter.

Biscuits and Sausage Gravy



A mixture of old and new - the biscuits were split oven and smothered in the gravy instead of being served whole with a bowl of gravy. Less waste must surely result - I could never finish the contents of a gravy bowl with two biscuits. But the gravy lacked the peppery freshness I remembered, and the biscuits lacked profundity. I also enjoyed a side of cheese grits.



Bob's Breakfast - Mr. Shipp's Fisherman's Special with sausage, and






Biscuits










For as long as he'd been working, Mr. Shipp had never allowed anyone else to make the biscuits. We wondered if he'd left any of his recipe or technique for another to follow. These biscuits probably wanted to be baked a bit more. Even with more browning, though, their made-from-mix character and lack of great biscuit texture (flakiness) would have been apparent. Hopefully, with practice, whoever is making these will improve - Mr. Shipp had decades of practice before we ever tasted a one of his (and we'd noticed the last couple of years that they weren't quite the same). Mr. Shipp's biscuits inspired us, on more than one occasion, to carry home a 5# bag of White Lily flour in our luggage, the better to try to duplicate his biscuity goodness - while Bob is a good biscuit-maker, they are never quite as light and flaky as Mr. Shipp's. (BTW - White Lily Flower can now be acquired in or near most cities.) 

I hoped to get back for another breakfast, to try the Chicken and Waffles, but it just never happened this trip. We will definitely try them again next year, since they'd only been operating for three days when we ate there; it was too early to really judge it fairly.

Our last visit to Harbor Docks came on Presidents' Day (Monday, February 20) and was largely a repeat of  our first lunch, though with a different start:

Freshly baked corn muffins


I would suspect that we weren't served any muffins at our first lunch due to the late hour; they may have run out of them. At the time, I didn't even remember this usual start to lunch at Harbor Docks. These specimens were hot and toothsome. 

Country Fried Mullet, Cole Slaw, Grits, Hushpuppies







Both mullet lunches were a veritable steal at $8 dollars a plate. The comparable plates of snapper, grouper and tuna were $13-15 (all offered with a choice of sides, including cucumber salad and ginger rice). Of course, taste is everything. The impeccably fresh, well seasoned, crispy mullet satisfied on both occasions.  

Yes, fun playing with Florida Panhandle food was off to a great start indeed. More to come in the next post.