Fun Playing With Our Two Favorite Gulf Coast Restaurants, Part 1

Much as I would like to name a "best of trip," that is impossible. We enjoyed so much fabulous food from so many wonderful places. But two places stood out just a bit above the rest. However, one can't really be ranked above the other. So, we'll explore the other in the next post.

The place to which we keep bringing our friends is Christiano's Italian Restaurant in Santa Rosa Beach. Chef/Owner Chris Chirum and his wife Rene offer genuine hospitality, killer fish and seafood, red sauce Italian, pizza, and house made desserts. The food and atmosphere are so welcoming, we forgive Chef for being a Steeler's fan!

The first basket of this luscious house-made focaccia bread is complimentary, and is accompanied by a savory dipping oil. You don't want to fill up on bread when there is so much goodness to come, do you?

Bob's:  Trout Meunière: Pan-sautéed Trout in a classic brown butter sauce with lemon and capers, with fresh asparagus and pasta marinara.         

We've had several different fishes prepared Meuniere style at Christiano's and they are always delicious. But my first entree this season hit the motherload.

Italian Whole Snapper al Forno

Locally caught whole Red Snapper baked with fresh herbs, lemon & garlic, encrusted with bread crumbs & Pecorino Romano Cheese was bone-licking good! The side of pasta with marinara went almost untouched (though it made a tasty left over the next day) but not one morsel of that snapper remained!

On our second visit, we were joined by a Cleveland area couple whose acquaintance we had just made, via  a Cleveland food group on Facebook. They are regulars to the Destin area in winter, but had never before enjoyed Chef Chris's hospitality. They left happy, sated, and impressed.

Christiano's is one of the few restaurants where I will eat the shrimp (which are generally sourced from Harbor Docks Wholesale Seafood Market together with much of the fin fish). So Bob and I began with an appetizer of Bad-a-Bing Shrimp.

Local shrimp are simmered in a Moscato wine garlic butter sauce with sun-dried tomatoes & scallions. Pristine and succulent. 

This time, I had the Meunière, prepared with Louisiana Redfish. It was splendid.

Bob, and one of our dining companions, opted for the classic Fettuccine Alfredo and they were both delighted with it. 

Our remaining dining companion chose the Pork Osso Buco, which was quite spectacular. It looked like the ones depicted in the video on Christiano's Facebook page, and our friend enjoyed every drop! Christiano's Pork Shank Food Porn.

For our third and final visit, we brought our dear friends Phil and Virginia for their first meal on their brief visit with us. I had so enjoyed my taste of Bob's Alfredo the last time, that I went for the Alfredo with Shrimp; it proved an excellent choice.

Bob decided to landlubber with the Veal Marsala. 

Veal Scaloppine was sautéed with mushrooms, onion & garlic in a dry Marsala sauce and served with pasta marinara. It melted in the mouth. 

Phil and Virginia love sweets, and persuaded us to join them in dessert. This was probably the only dessert we ordered on the entire trip, but oh, my it was worth the splurge!

House-made Key Lime Pie

The pie was perfect, from the tender flaky crust through the creamy filling and up to the top of the house-whipped cream. I do recommend that you sample one of Chef Chris's desserts should you dine at Christiano's!

If you want to try the whole fish, it is best to call and reserve an order, because they don't keep a lot of it on hand (especially in winter) so as to only serve the freshest fish. Prices for fish are commensurate with the neighborhood, but the prices overall are extremely reasonable and the service is always stellar. As you can see, the portions are substantial. Christiano's also had some nice value priced wines by the glass, as well as more high end selections. I don't know if they still have live entertainment in the lounge, but when offered, we enjoyed it. We always have fun playing with the food at Christiano's! 

Christiano's Italian Restaurant

4942 U.S. 98 Santa Rosa Beach, FL 32459

(850) 267-2185 

Monday-Saturday 5pm-until

Fun Playing with Food (and friends) at Lake House Restaurant in Lakewood

September 19 is "Talk Like A Pirate Day." My Mensa friends, who love a good joke, pun or excuse to be a little silly, set up a lunch by the water (Lake Erie) to celebrate. I'd never heard of Lake House Restaurant in Lakewood before, but it was a "fun to play with" discovery yesterday! Sadly, I didn't get any photos of the attendees, some of whom sported their Pirate finest, but ARGGHH did we have a great, inexpensive meal accompanied by a four star lake view despite the gloomy weather! The restaurant is a physically old, old-school diner-like space in a mid-rise residential building, with close, free parking, that serves up classic (and a little newer school) comfort food and diner grub, with beer if desired, six days a week. 

I loved that so much of the food was made from scratch (or nearly so), though my first taste, of a Guinness Pretzel Bite served with a cheddar cheese dipping sauce ordered by a table-mate, definitely felt Sysco-y (though warm and tasty).

But it was mostly uphill from there. 

House-made Clam Chowder

Our group numbered over a dozen, so I can't really fault them for serving this lovely soup a little to the cold side. But the microwave would have rubberized the beautifully tender clam meat, so we enjoyed it as served. Nicely done.

Cajun Pasta

Bob just had four teeth extracted, and so was limited to mushy food. Lake House Restaurant offers several pasta dishes that come by default with meat and/or seafood, but which can also be ordered "plain" - this option served Bob well: penne pasta tossed with a cajun spiced alfredo sauce and tomatoes. Topped with parmesan cheese, it tasted creamy with a little bite, and "gave" nicely without being mushy. I enjoyed my bite even without the chicken that normally accompanies it.

I took a flyer on the signature dish - Fresh Lake Erie Perch: Lightly breaded and fried, served with sautéed onions & parmesan topped pierogies, and coleslaw. Experience has taught that a dish like this would either be very good or very bad. Happy to report the former!

House made cole slaw

What a difference fresh-made makes! Creamy, clean and crisp. Half came home for dinner.

Fried Perch, Pierogies, Tarter

Another perspective

Half of this portion came home for dinner; it was a lovely value at $16 plus $2 for the cup of soup. The fish glistened with freshness under it's hot, crispy coat, cleverly plated over iceberg lettuce strips to keep it from getting soggy on the plate. I didn't get to learn if the pierogies are made in house or sourced, but they were fresh not frozen and the sauteed (not deeply fried) dough had a delightful pillowy lightness, encasing freshly mashed potatoes. The onion topping was nicely caramelized and accented with grated cheese and parsley. I would return for this meal again and again if I lived nearby!

Other diners in our party sampled various diner-style comfort foods, including patty melts served with house-made chips, wraps, salads, and one peanut-butter cup encrusted dessert that looked lovely. Service was exuberant and attentive, another reason to return for more. 

Lake House Restaurant is open for Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner Tuesday-Saturday, and Breakfast and Lunch only on Sunday. A great little fun place to play with your food with a view!

More Fun Playing With Food at Grove Hill

It is unusual for me to post a second piece on a restaurant so soon after the first, but we had so much fun playing at Grove Hill in Chagrin Falls the other night that I have to share! Tim Bando's raw gem of a restaurant, which was less than two weeks old at our first visit, continues to refine itself into a jewel, and our experience reflected that. Their website is now fully functional, and walking into the restaurant, with a reservation this time, I noticed that the roses had disappeared from the front window bar seating area. Whereas the first time a few items were unevenly seasoned, all of the flavors Thursday night were spot on. And the best part is that Chef Bando spent a lot of years on Long Island's East End, and he knows fish and seafood, as demonstrated by some of our selections on both visits. 

Butter, Roasted Garlic, House Made Bean Dip

On our first visit, the roasted garlic was a little under-cooked; this version was soft and spreadable. The seasoning on the bean dip was completely balanced, and the butter creamy.

Our friend dove into the raw bar and had oysters for his appetizer. I didn't photograph them because I didn't eat them, but he assured me that they were superb; here's a link to his photo of his oysters. Our friend was impressed with the selection available, the product he ate, and the sauces that accompanied them. 

SMOKED SAUSAGE, pickled vegetables, grain mustard, crusty bread

Bob's appetizer was big enough to be an entree! Two large, crispy on the outside pieces of smoked sausage were accompanied by crunchy vegetables that lent acidic lightness to the rich meat. Chef Bando stopped by to chat with us, and said that this kielbasa-like sausage is made for him by Blue Ribbon Meats, a quality Cleveland purveyor that also makes the Bratwurst served at Michael Symon's B Spot restaurants. 

VEAL SWEETBREADS MILANESE, marinated heirloom tomatoes

The best sweatbreads ever! The meat melted in the mouth, the breading adding a nice crunch. Again, a light acidic accompaniment, the tomato salad, helped to cut and compliment the creamy richness of the sweatbreads and the aïoli topped it off perfectly. 

GROVE HILL BURGER, lettuce, tomato, half-sour pickle, cheese, fries

Bob chose the burger. It was cooked to medium as he specified, and the cheddar was nicely melted. This was a perfectly serviceable burger and well suited to the fussy eater in your party, if you  have one (you know, the one who said "eww" when you explained what sweatbreads are). 

SPAGHETTI BOLOGNESE AMERICANO, parmesan, basil

Our friend made this dish his entree. My bite was a delicious combination of meat, tomato and pasta. Not sure why it's called "Americano," but that will give me an excuse to order it on a future visit. 

LINGUINI, jumbo lump crab, garlic, calabrian chile, lemon oil, parsley

I hit the jackpot with this choice. The lump crab tasted of sweet freshness from the sea, with no off flavors or smells as is often the case with Cleveland seafood. The chile was applied with care so it did not overwhelm the delicate crabmeat, and the prominence of lemon oil again showed off Chef Bando's skill with mating acid to rich ingredients to get the best of both. 

Even with leftovers to box up, we were all too full for dessert, which is a shame because they sounded delicious! Grove Hill has an in-house pastry chef making them, so next time, we will save room.

Chef Bando said the menu would be changing very soon (he says he has a short attention span), and even better, that Grove Hill would begin serving brunch on Saturday and Sunday August 23; they have a local farm set up to supply quality eggs for that. We look forward to playing with brunch at Grove Hill after the Farmers' Markets for the rest of summer and into fall!

Grove Hill is quickly becoming a favorite. Pristine ingredients and clever preparations combined with great service equals fun playing with food at Grove Hill.

Fun Playing with Sophisticated Yet Whimsical Food at Trentina, Cleveland OH

Jonathon Sawyer's new restaurant Trentina is an homage to the food styles of Trentino Italy, but also celebrates locally procured products with exquisite preparations. Executive Chef Matt Danko matches Sawyer smash for smash as they execute and deliver intricate dishes that appeal to all of the senses and reinvent familiar foods (eggs, pasta, fish, meat) through ingredient choices, cooking methods and presentations rather than chemical or gadget-based razzle-dazzle. Forager Jeremy Umansky sources the local mushrooms and herbage.

We were invited for a "Friends and Family" preview of the 12-14  course tasting Menu Bianco. My opinions, as always, are my own, and in this case, they are: if you love beautiful food that you can't possibly prepare at home, food that is both simple and complex in the same bite, and if you can step away from your food taboos (or identify them to the restaurant so you aren't served any), you must try Trentina!

Though Trentina will accommodate food allergies and honor preferences (including requests for vegetarian and vegan menus), the best experience will come from letting the kitchen do it's magic without restriction. 

The "by the glass" wine menu paired three glasses to the 12 course tasting menu for $40. Bob enjoyed two Fevertree soft drinks, and we both appreciated the sparkling water that also accompanied the meal.

Located in University Circle, Trentina is set in a former carriage house adjacent to the Glidden House (where Trentina will eventually take on catering responsibilities). The entrance is a little abrupt - it is a small space and a sharp turn. But the staff instantly makes you feel welcome and comfortable. Service is at a high level but the experience is leisurely.

Primi Assaggio
Smoked black cod, Crusto di Polenta (crusted polenta), celery root puree, pickled green beans, romaine root, carne asada  with heirloom beans

This plate was a share for the two diners, a series of single bites to awaken and challenge the palate.

Caviar + Ciccoli
Pasta stuffed with house-cultivated cream cheese, topped with caviar.

Each diner received one of these creamy-dreamy bites. 

Crustaceo Crudo
Vintage Ohio Apple & Citrus on the left, spicy Asian flavors on the right

Delivering this course, Chef Sawyer explained that each diner in the couple might receive a slightly different variation on the given dish, and that couples were encouraged to share. I joked that it would take a pretty gymnastic slurp and bite to share the Asian-flavored oyster, and he immediately sent another plate of two oysters to the table so Bob could also taste the Asian flavors. This is now policy (the extra plate, not the gymnastic slurp): Trentina calls it a "re-visit," where you may return to a course you would like to try again or perhaps one you didn't get to have yet and another party at your table had. A terrific solution for the dish that isn't so easily shared. 

Crustaceo Crudo
Vintage Ohio Apple & Citrus - Scallop

How rare is it to get the whole scallop, coral, shell and all? No packaged scallop can match one taken directly from the shell and this one was no exception; the delicately cured porky bits added another dimension of deliciousness without overwhelming the pristine shellfish.

Sable Fish Al Cartoccio
Each diner had a different preparation, though I believe both featured pea puree.

Bob's had Chicken O The Woods Mushrooms, lentils and shredded egg, Mine was greener - might even have had cucumber - but the flavors all melted into the silky fish with none predominating. 

Bread Service with Crunchy Salt and spice

Bread 'n butter is bread 'n butter, right?

Edible Candle
24K Gold Honey, Aged Beef Suet, Crunchy Salt

The combination of salt, spice, crunch, creamy-beefiness and bitter citrus took this "bread service" to a whole different taste and textural place than bread and butter (or olive oil) ever could.

Pasta Alla Chitarra with Ohio Farm Egg
Carbonara style with yellow lentils and pork skin, and yes, mushrooms.

This freshly made pasta is cut on a chitarra (a "guitar" stringed pasta cutter) then combined with porky richness and the luxurious egg-lentil-mushroom sauce that transformed the rustic into a complex flavor and texture combination.  And it wasn't even the best pasta dish of the evening. 

Pasta Alla Chitarra with Ohio Farm Egg - Bob's

The egg is cooked on a wooden spoon in embers, and a bit of the ember is placed on the diner's plate. The chitarra pasta was cross-cut into perfect little squares and paired with Chicken-O-The-Woods mushrooms and pork. This wasn't the pasta winner either, fabulous as it was.

Pasta Cuscino - Stuffed Pasta Course - Bob's

This one had much mushroom, crown tipped coral fungus was mentioned, so I was glad it was served to Bob. The only dish I didn't love, and was a tad oversalted. But my Pasta Cuscino plate, OMG . . . 

Pasta Cuscino - Stuffed Pasta Course - mine
Trangolapreti (pasta dumpling) stuffed with Formaggio Che Cola and served with cabbages, onion & Spicebush.

This may have been one of the best bites of pasta I've ever experienced, and the cheesy center took it even higher. Yes, the type and quality of the cheese matters. Here, it complimented a perfectly textured pasta dumpling and a cabbage-onion reduction seasoned with a foraged berry called spicebush.

Game Birds - mine
 Breast & Leg of Guinea Fowl, fowl liver, sauce of Oxidized Wine, Morels, candied grape and garlic scape and, I think, barley.

The silky taste and texture of the Guinea Fowl foie gras belied it's game bird origin. The breast and leg meats were tender and perfectly flavored, with just a hint of gaminess, but not enough to detract. Chef Sawyer explained that the wine was deliberately exposed to air to give it a Madeira-like quality that complimented and tamed that touch of gaminess in the meats. 

Game Birds - Bob's
Confit leg & thigh, and rare breast of Squab, Squab Liver-Pork-Rice Blood Sausage, cake of Acorns, Hickory Nuts & Orzo

Chef Sawyer is a little too young to remember Euell Gibbons, but all I could think of when he described this dish was Richard Dawson on the Match Game intoning, "Hickory Nuts Can Be Fun." Sawyer described this dish as served with the primary components of the Squab's diet or, you are what you eat! We especially enjoyed the blood sausage, which sounds intimidating, but is really just another type of sausage. 

Beasts Roasted Over Embers - Bob's
Venison two ways, Braised Shoulder & Medium Rare Loin. Dehydrated olive, roasted eggplant.

Red meat, eggplant, olives - seems on the surface to be ordinary. But this version played with each element to magnify the flavors then put them back together in a seamless fashion.  

Beef over Painted Plate (jus) with Cauliflower Pudding

Chef Sawyer explained that by dragging the meat and a dab of the liquid through the "paint" on the plaint, more sauce would render from it. The steak was beautifully tender and richly flavored, and a chewy counterpoint to the creamy pudding. 

Primi Dolce
Strawberry Sorbet, Yogurt, Pistachio

Dolce- mine
Apricot Strudel alla Trentina w/gelati

Dolce- Bob's
Pear Strudel alla Trentina w/Gelati

Diners even got a slightly different take on dessert. Both were solid.

Grazia
Gold Chocolate

The perfect ending to a delicious meal: simple chunks of house-made chocolate.  

Part of what makes Trentina so amazing is that by the time you read this post and perhaps try Trentina, your menu may be mostly or entirely different from what we enjoyed. Chefs Sawyer and Danko are committed to using the most exquisite products they can source, focusing on the local, which necessarily is always in flux. 

According to information provided by Trentina, in addition to Menu Bianco ($100 per diner, purchased non-refundably in advance or $115 if at time of dining), a Pasta Degustazione (pasta tasting) menu ($60) is now available at the restaurant, though not through the website. Tax and gratuity is added to either menu choice. Pizza and other items will be available al la carte on the patio shortly, but they haven't given an ETA just yet. 

Trentina is fun playing with food at it's best, pampering the diner with small tastes of creatively imagined, painstakingly prepared and carefully sourced culinary delights.