Fun Playing With Food in Chicago Part 2: The Gage

A funny thing happened on the way to the courthouse on Monday morning - the case stopped with a jerk and we fell off! Well, not exactly. But by 11am, Bob and I were excused from the proceedings for the day. We next considered lunch. Our food forward friend (and frequent Chicago visitor) Edsel had recommended The Gage, less than 3 blocks from The Silversmith. It turned out to be our favorite meal of the trip (or in a close tie with the Little Goat Diner) and it hadn't even been on our radar; but for the bad weather, we had many choices on the list ahead of it. Don't make that mistake if you visit this part of Chicago.

We were now a tad under-dressed for this beautifully restored, historic eatery, recently named as one of the top five Power Lunch spots in all Chicago. The restaurant has several dining rooms on 2 levels (with an elevator to make it all accessible), and we were made to feel warm and welcome. The Gage exemplified the marvelous service we experienced almost every place we dined in Chicago. When the more spacious deuce next to ours emptied before we'd placed our food order, our server was happy to relocate us and our beverages, on request. That move was shortly followed by a fabulous Michael Ruhlman moment, as one diner of the deuce that replaced us (two business ladies) ordered a Caesar Salad with Grilled Chicken - how could you, when House Poutine with Braised Elk Ragoût, Stewed Vegetables, Curd Cheese, and Chips is on the menu for a mere $8???

House Poutine Braised Elk Ragoût, Stewed Vegetables, Curd Cheese, Chips

Best dish of trip. Period. The elk melted in the mouth and was not at all gamey, and the remaining ingredients harmonized perfectly with crunch, creaminess, and umami. Four diners could share this portion as an appetizer, but Bob and I bravely cleaned the dish without further assistance.

Bread Service

House-baked multigrain bread is accompanied by locally sourced cultured butter, with a drizzle of pink salt. Yes, we used it to clean the Poutine dish, and no, we were not ashamed.

Locally Crafted Sausages (House Made Rabbit, Garlic, Thyme Sausage, Smoked Polish from Bobak's), Crisp Potato, Brie

Bob's lunch was divine. Simple, but beautiful ingredients, perfectly prepared and smartly served. The Gage certainly knows it's way around game, as the rabbit sausage turned out by it's kitchen had a distinctive, but not gamey flavor. Ironically, Bobak's website informs us that the smoked polish was invented on, and named for, Maxwell Street. Whether the old Maxwell Street Market was involved, I do not know.

Lunch Special Sandwich: Duck Confit with Brandy BBQ Sauce, Onion, Arugula, Sauerkraut on Ciabatta

I hit the motherload with my choice of the "special" sandwich - special indeed! Silky duck shreds bathed in the rich but surprisingly light and tangy sauce, balanced out with the acidic sauerkraut, accompanied by gently dressed, crispy greens (the server offered potatoes as an alternate to the salad, but the first course had settled that consideration). Bob pronounced the half sour pickle delicious also. When we asked the server to wrap our leftover bread and butter (for a better breakfast tomorrow than the one we'd bought today), he instead insisted on sending us out with a fresh loaf and container of butter together with our entree leftovers. Well played.

I'd snagged an elusive reservation for Stephanie Izard's The Girl and The Goat for Monday's dinner - would we have the room to enjoy it? More Fun Playing With Chicago Food to come . . . .

Fun Playing With Food in Chicago Part 1, The Purple Pig

We spent most of last week in Chicago, on business that didn't turn out so well. All I can say is that the trial was reasonably fair, and the jury did what it did. At least we got to partake of some lovely eats for our trouble. And we managed to keep the budget in line (appropriate in light of our empty pockets after the trial), at about or under $30 per person per meal, excluding alcohol.

Our friend Cynthia returned the favor from her recent trip to Cleveland by picking us up at Midway and driving us to our hotel. I can highly recommend the Silversmith if you need to be downtown in Chicago, especially in winter when discounted rates abound. In addition to clean, spacious accommodations, the room included a laptop-friendly sized safe deposit box.

We flew in to Chicago on Sunday evening, and made tracks to The Purple Pig, so highly regarded by friends and commentators alike. The food, served in small tasting portions designed for sharing, was fabulous; I consider it a compliment to the Chicago food scene that it didn't rank as our favorite meal through no fault of its own!

Pork Fried Almonds with Rosemary & Garlic

Pork Fried Almonds. 'Nuff said?

Purple Pig Cured Meats Platter

My Charcuterie Plate

We all enjoyed this platter - but agreed that we might have spent our stomach space more wisely. A little more variety on the platter (nuts, dried fruits, cheese) may have altered that opinion, but truthfully, in hindsight, we concluded that Purple Pig has much more innovative and interesting offerings than this.

Burrata Pugliese, Grilled Kohlrabi, Apples, Mustard Greens, Crispy Speck & Beer Agrodolce

Cynthia had never before tried burrata, and this was a magnificent way to be introduced to this exquisite type of mozzarella-on-steroids cheese. The combination of apple, bacon and burrata was simply amazing and we wished the portion had three more bites!

Pork Secreto with Roasted Red Pepper, Leeks & Pickled Watermelon Rind

I need for the butcher to locate this succulent cut of pork when our next Berkshire hog is processed! A melt in your mouth delicious cut of a beautiful beast, perfectly prepared, and accompanied with vegetation that really complimented the meat.

House made Veal Mortadella Sausage with Black Kale, Fresh Chickpeas & Preserved Cherry Tomatoes

The mortadella was another "melt in your mouth delicious" meat offering. We also appreciated the fresh, fresh (never dried or frozen) chickpeas, and the crunchy kale.

Our initial order ended here. Though we were no longer super hungry, we decided we had enough room for a trio of dishes from the "fried" section of the menu; this cost us any chance at ordering dessert. Works for me.

Pig's Ear with Crispy Kale, Pickled Cherry Peppers & Fried Egg

Oops - I didn't realize that the dish was shaped like a pig, and my best shots didn't feature its face. The contents were lovely, though I confess to loving the version at Lolita here in Cleveland just a bit more.

Petit Basque Cheese with Membrillo

Our favorite fried dish. I mean, what is not to love about fried cheese with a gently sweet sauce? On several levels, this was dessert.

Eggplant Parmesan Balls

These morsels actually succeeded in reducing classic eggplant parm into a bite sized portion. Two bites gave the entire experience normally requiring an entree. Bravo.

The trial would begin the next morning. Wired with anticipation, we returned to the Silversmith to engage the next steps, completely sated and happy.

New Year's Day Food Fun

My husband introduced me to the Eastern European tradition of eating pork on New Year's Day when we were dating some 20 years ago. The ubiquitous roast pork and sauerkraut just doesn't float my boat, though.   One year, Bob made Hoppin' John. This southern treatment of black eyed peas is also supposed to be eaten at the New Year for good luck, but his version just didn't make me want to eat it again.

This year, we decided to make Michael Symon's Christmas Ham with Habanero Glaze for New Year's Day.  We had two ham sections still left from our 2011 Breychak Farm Berkshire hog, and this seemed a great way to use one. But one look at Michael Ruhlman's New Year's Eve post also inspired us to add Hoppin' John to the menu. And this time, it was plate-licking good. Of course, the Breychak Farm bacon probably had something to do with that. 

Sorry the ham got short shrift. We didn't have a full shank portion, so we couldn't get the skin all crispy and luscious-looking as the photo accompanying Symon's recipe depicts. But it tasted awfully good! Fun playing with food to start the New Year - hope yours was Happy!

Fun Playing With Mexican Food at the Mall

Usually, the mall is not where I go expecting to enjoy cooked-from-scratch food made with real ingredients. For a while, the one exception to this rule had been the Richmond Mall, located at 651 Richmond Road, Richmond Heights, Ohio 44143. I used to love the Indian booth in the food court, which offered spicy made-to-order goodness, but that stand closed several years ago. I hadn't been in this mall in a very long time, then an errand at JC Penny's summoned me. Since it was lunchtime, I figured lunch would come from one of the less objectionable chains in what remained of the food court (the pizza place isn't bad).  

Then I saw the signpost, up ahead, where Arthur Treacher's had previously doled out greasy fried things for an eternity:

I'd never heard of it before - but surely, it was part of some new plastic-food franchise, right? Wrong!

While I perused the small menu, the young lady at the register told me a little about Rodrigo's. Family-owned by two men who dreamed of a full brick-and-mortar restaurant, but could only afford to open a food court stand, Rodrigo's Mexican Food offers food that is made from scratch, mostly to order, together with house-made condiments and a lovely selection of Jarritos (Mexican sodas) and Horchata (a Mexican drink made with rice, milk, vanilla, and cinnamon). Coke products are also available, on tap. One of the owners was around, but was in conversation with someone in the seating area and not behind the stand, so I didn't get to chat with him. But according to their Facebook page, Rodrigo's opened in August 2011.

Prices range from $1.99 for a single taco, to $6.99 for a Torta, or sandwich (the daily special pairs the Carne Asada (Steak) Torta with a fountain drink for $6.99). The previously slimy, smelly kitchen had been scrubbed to within an inch of it's life, and stainless steal equipment gleamed over the now-pristine surroundings, all visible through the service window. 

Sadly, on that first visit, not only were my cameras AWOL, but even my cell phone was absent, so no photos. I ordered one each of the three meat tacos, served on soft, warm corn tortillas that are locally sourced (not Orale, but pretty good). The Carne Asada, Carnitas (shredded pork) and Pastor (marinated pork - my favorite of the three) were all delicious, topped with a perfect dusting of cotija cheese instead of the usual plastic-shredded cheddar. I also ordered a side of beans and rice, and the friendly counter person offered me three house-made sauces to enjoy with my meal. Mild, medium and hot, all three popped with fresh flavors. The beans and rice didn't wow me, but the tacos and sauces sure did, and I promised to return with camera in hand soon. 

Today presented my first opportunity to return, for a late lunch. I asked about the Chile Rellenos - most places around here either make them and freeze them, or start with frozen product from food service, because they don't sell as well as tacos, burritos, etc. The young counterman assured me that these were not frozen, so Rellenos it was! When he asked if I wanted beans and rice, I said yes, but didn't expect much, especially since it was well after 2pm, when rice is often dry and hard. Then, the cook told him to hold on a moment, as he was about to hand over my tray, because there were corn tortillas on the grill for my plate! None of the beans, rice or tortillas were mentioned on the menu, so be sure to ask what's included before  you order and you may be pleasantly surprised. My tab, including a small tap pop, was about $8. 

This post is being written right after consuming this lunch, because it was that good! First, the food photos, with a caveat. The owner, who was working in the kitchen (and told me his name, but with his heavy accent and the mall noise, I'm quite sure I didn't get it correctly), said that he gave me two chilies instead of the usual one, because these were his last two and he needed to make more (the implication was that it didn't make sense to him to keep one older one around if he was making a fresh batch). So, please remember that this is a double portion of the entree:

Fresh, Grilled Corn Tortillas (3)

2 Chile Rellenos Stuffed with Cheese, Beans & Rice

Since there is nothing more watery-nasty than a frozen chile, and since I had seen a dish with my entree heat in the microwave, I prepared myself in case I had chosen poorly. But it hadn't been frozen. It had been fried and chilled prior to service (hence the microwave re-heat), but the flavors were spot on delicious. Even though the textures of both the pepper and the batter did lose a little, it was unmistakably Poblano and irresistibly tasty! The fried, cheese-stuffed pepper had been topped before the re-heat with a fresh sauce containing tomato, sauteed onions and more peppers, which had a perfect chile heat that was complex, yet mild enough for most diners. I loved every bite of this dish, and scooped up the delicious sauce with the tortillas once I was out of chilies (given the extra chile, three tortillas proved too many, however, for a one chile meal, the three tortillas would probably be just the right amount of food). 

And the beans this time were simply fabulous! Slightly smokey, with a lush mouthfeel, and served hot, these  beans weren't just forkable - they needed to be scooped up with tortillas until they were gone (as in, plate licking good)! The rice was soft and hot, and dressed with just the right amount of hot sauce to produce a gentle tingle. But those beans - I had to know what was in them! The owner explained that he renders pork fat when he cooks his carnitas down, and uses that lovely lard in his bean pot. Oh, yes.

I am already looking forward to trying a Torta, and perhaps some Flautas, Enchiladas and Burritos on future visits, and more of those silky beans. Fun playing with Mexican food at the mall??? Yes, you can, at Rodrigo's Mexican Food stand at Richmond Mall!

Fun Playing With Xiao Long Bao Before the Storm at Gourmet Chopsticks

This post is almost a month late. In the aftermath of Hurricane Sandy, I just couldn't get myself to focus on our doings in New York that weekend. Even after my brother on Long Island finally got his power back after two weeks in the dark (down seven trees, a backyard and a roof) the surreal feeling about the whole weekend remained. My heart goes out to all affected by the storm. 

Passing through New Jersey en route to Family Ground Zero the last Wednesday in October, we dined again at Fairfield's Gourmet Chopsticks (14 Rt. 46 East). Since there were only three of us, we faced a bit of a culinary dilemma; we knew if we ordered entrees, we'd be stuffed in no time. Working strictly from the Chinese Menu (shared in my last Gourmet Chopsticks post), we worked it out deliciously:

Crab Xiao Long Bao

Remember that these are entitled "Steamed Crab Meat (or Pork) Juicy Bun" on the menu, under Noodle & Rice. Though I'd like a little more soup in them, these dumplings were most serviceable.

Long Hot Pepper With Beef Noodle Cake

This was item #11 under the same menu section, a thankfully appetizer-sized portion. We had no idea what to expect when we ordered, but it sounded tasty and it was. The peppers were zippy but not exceptionally spicy, and blended well with the toothy dough of the "noodle," which was thicker and chewier than a mu shu wrapper, but not really a noodle in the Western sense. The tender beef melted against the peppers, and benefited from a little crunch from the bamboo shoot. Noodle, schmoodle - may I have another please?

Shanghai Smoked Duck Appetizer

This item is #3 under the "Shanghai Style Appetizer" section of the Chinese Menu. What can you say about perfectly smoked duck covered in crispy skin?   

Shanghai Style Hand Pulled Noodles with Pork

Jo-Mel would disown me as her culinary student if I didn't agree to an order of Hand Pulled Noodles. She did not, however, have to twist my arm. Hand pulled noodles are a treat that can't be beat, and Gourmet Chopsticks does them well. Do ask for chili paste on the side if you are inclined as they are a little mild.

Chinese Turnip Cake

We've had this type of turnip cake before, at Petite Soochow (also in New Jersey). Item #2 under "Noodles & Rice" starts with a crispy skin, which is stuffed with shredded Chinese radish; this version had a nice creaminess to it which none of the waitstaff could identify for us. While I prefer the more common pudding-like turnip cake, this version was freshly made, hot and tasty. 

Braised Dongpo Pork Appetizer

This dish was our winner for "best of dinner." Located at Item #8 under Shanghai Style Appetizer, this luscious pork is not to be missed if you visit Gourmet Chopsticks! The belly was "red cooked" to utter tenderness with dark soy and anise. It takes a while to make, but is so worth the wait!

Indeed, by the time I'd eaten half of my portion of the pork, I despaired as to how I'd manage to consume the final dish we'd ordered, again from the Shanghai Style Appetizer menu, Smoked Fish in Suzhou Style. Serendipitously, our server informed us that they were out of smoked fish and he'd forgotten to tell us - so the last morsels of pork made it down. Oh fun, oh food - Gourmet Chopsticks, I will miss you this winter, but we'll be back to play with more Shanghai style food in the spring!

Gourmet Chopsticks

14 Rt. 46 East

Fairfield, NJ 07004

(973) 808-8328

Fun Playing With Friends and Small Plates at Lolita

After our delightful Sunday brunch at Luxe, we proceeded to show our friend Cynthia around several Cleveland neighborhoods, including downtown (in full Browns home game mode - she marveled at the ease with which we transversed the downtown mayhem), Asiatown and University Circle. After stopping back home, we refreshed and headed to Tremont and Michael Symon's Lolita for dinner with friends. We stuck to small plates and pizza, and didn't need a single entree to achieve food nirvana.

Bone Marrow

The succulent bone marrow is an ideal start. Rich, rich, rich - but so worth it.

The Big Board

Lolita doesn't make as much charcuterie in-house as it used to, but no matter. We greedily devoured every morsel on this board - the pate at 11 o'clock was the winner, followed closely by a duck confit hiding under the crostini at 12. There was not a loser in sight.

Grilled Shishito Peppers - meyer lemon, feta, bread crumbs, oregano, anchovy vinaigrette

Simply delicious - not too spicy and perfectly balanced (and I "don't like" anchovies, either, but this was delicious). This dish highlighted why Chef Symon is so lemon zest-happy on The Chew - because it makes the food's other flavors pop.

Crispy Chicken Livers - soft polenta, mushrooms, bacon

Cynthia isn't a big chicken liver fan (I'm generally not either), but this plate got cleaned. Again, Symon's team perfectly nuanced the intense chicken livers against the gentle polenta and creamy bacon (and mushrooms, for those who love them). The head chef at Lolita these days is Chef James Mowcomber, who is doing an outstanding job. 

My plate with Chicken Liver,  Polenta and a Roasted Dates stuffed with almonds, bacon, chiles, parsley

My photo of the date plate didn't sing, but the food surely did. The stuffed date is an old favorite from the Lolita kitchen, but it never fails to please with its combination of sweet and savory.

Eggplant Dip with Lemon, Crunchy something (it was delicious) and oiled bread.

Babaganoush on steroids (or was it a Vitamix?). Best. Eggplant. Dip. Ever.

Fried Brussels Sprouts - capers, anchovies and walnuts

Ah, those pesky anchovies again! Guaranteed to please even the avid brussels sprout (or anchovy) hater!

Crispy Pig Tails & Ears - fennel-onion agrodolce, pickled chilies, cilantro

This took the prize for the most "interesting" dish of the evening. Both the sow's ear and it's tail were turned into silk purses, as far as we were concerned. The ear slices melted in the mouth with porky goodness. And the tail?

Crispy Pig Tails & Ears - fennel-onion agrodolce, pickled chilies, cilantro - close up

Simply delicious. Put aside whatever bias you have (and this is coming from a nice Jewish girl from New York) and get this while it's still on the menu. Period. And yes, this is finger food. You hands will get dirty and you will love licking off every morsel.

Pizza - Winter Squash, smoked mozzarella, apples, pancetta, onions, white balsamic.

This seasonal pizza is a worthy choice. I never thought I'd like apples on a pizza, but darned if this specimen didn't change my mind. And so, Lolita followed up most auspiciously on the territory staked out by Momocho and Luxe. Well played, Cleveland (and the Browns even won - ok, it was last week).

Early Monday morning, Cynthia took off for points south (Columbus). But Cleveland did itself proud this fine fall weekend, showing off the variety and quality of food available, at wallet-friendly price points, that made it the crown jewel of Midwest dining. Thank you Cleveland, and thank you Cynthia, for playing. I know that you were well rewarded with fun playing with your food, and that makes all the difference.

Fun Showing Off Cleveland Food - Luxe (and Momocho)

Last weekend, we entertained our Chicago friend, food writer Cynthia Clampitt, on her first ever trip to Cleveland. This also gave us an opportunity to return to a couple of local favorites that we've missed, and to sample Chef Brian Okin's fare at Gordon Square's Luxe Kitchen & Lounge. 

We began Saturday evening, at Ohio City's Momocho,1835 Fulton Road (216.694.2122). Cynthia's research project involved corn (as will her next book), so we took her to the most corn-centric restaurant we could identify. Alas, I have no photos to share, due to the dark and red-lit room, but I assure you that Chef-Owner Eric Williams (who was off on family duty that night) and his amazing staff are whipping up Nuevo Latino food that is worth a drive from almost anyplace; Cynthia pronounced it her new favorite restaurant (and given that she has about 1,200 to choose from in her hometown, that's pretty high praise).

We began with a trio of the made-to-order guacamoles (which the house kindly comped, after our 9:30pm reservation had slipped into the next hour before we were seated). The table favorite was the honey crisp apple, mango, thai basi, chile serrano, followed closely by the garlic confit, bleu cheese, chile verde version and the mix-in featuring pickled corn, crab, chile, chipotle. Cynthia and I both enjoyed the beer braised short rib tamales, and Bob chose the Waygu Beef Albondigas (meatballs). We also shared a side order of light and tender smoked gouda tamale dumplings. Though we were too sated to even look at the dessert menu, our server treated us to a small ramekin of Momocho's signature dessert, Capirotada: gingersnap, jalapeno bread pudding with burnt sugar and whipped crema. This sweet-spicy-warming-soothing treat is highly recommended. We returned home wondering how we'd ever be hungry for brunch the next morning.

Sunday morning brought us to Luxe, 6605 Detroit Avenue, Cleveland (216-920-0600). We had been wanting to get there since Brian Okin (co-founder of Dinner in the Dark, and former Chef at Verve and Fountain restaurants) took over the kitchen. I had actually given Cynthia about a half dozen options (we're not big Sunday Brunch eaters) and she chose Brian's menu. As luck would again have it, family duties called  Brian away, and we were left in the hands of Brian's able staff. Luxe is the third Cleveland restaurant I know of that lives in a converted bank space (after Dante in Tremont and Crop in Ohio City) and it also contains an interesting assortment of recycled/repurposed/classic decor.

Our repast began with a basket of freshly baked muffins and butter:

Between this basket and our salad plates, we had the opportunity to taste several different muffin flavors, including blueberry, cranberry, cherry, and my favorite, pumpkin. 

The beet salad at the top of the menu intrigued us, so we decided to order one to share. After Cynthia asked if it would be of sufficient size for us to put in the middle and have at (which the server answered in the affirmative), three plates identical to the one above appeared. This Baby Beet Salad included small rounds of pickled radish that I (who normally finds radish too bitter) really enjoyed, arugula, a generous slice of avocado,  and a topping of crunchy nuts and cheese.

Scramble with chorizo, hot peppers, manchego, tomato-cilantro salsa.

We all swooned over our taste of Bob's plate; fresh chorizo (sourced from the West Side Market, we were told) will do that.

Eggs Benny: English Muffin, Smoked Salmon, Poached Eggs, Hollandaise

Knowing that our dinner plans included Lolita and lots of pork, I decided to go to the marine side with brunch. The salmon was assertive without being fishy (in a belly lox kind of way), and the Hollandaise accompanied it well (a more mild salmon might have drowned in the richness). We all loved the fried potatoes that came on each plate, and were surprised to learn that no animal fats were involved in their preparation; they were that tasty. 

With price points between $6 and $16 for entrees (most in the $9-12 range), Luxe offers tasty fun for everyone on Sunday morning. Now all we need to do is drag ourselves back westward to sample Brian's dinner menu!